Posted by PellucidWombat on Jun 5, 2006
Page Views: 1690

Date: After Jun 25, 2006
Location: United States
City or Place: BERKELEY, CA 94709
Skill Level: Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced
Categories: Biking, Gym/Training, Mountaineering
Partner Status: Want Partners

Currently I'm doing some hard aerobic workout 3 times a week (East Bay/Berkeley) and a good lifting session twice a week (UC Berkeley), and gym climbing 2-3 times a week (Ironworks) with training specifically geared towards fitness for technical alpine climbing.

My main lifting partner has had to change his focus, and my gym climbing partner is more focused on only climbing harder routes at the gym for training, and so far I've always biked alone. A dedicated partner in any of these areas would be wonderful, although at this point I'm looking mostly for a weight-training partner.

To give an idea of what sort of stuff I'm doing, below is my current workout plan, which is emphasizing ice climbing at the moment:

Weight Training - Currently this is my solo schedule - I'd likely change it if including others. It usually is just over an hour long total

• Tuesday -
  
  
  • Calf Lockoffs w/ Boots - I stand on a step on my toes, locking myself off at lowest angle, horizontal, highest angle, and 35-45 degree angle for 30 second intervals. 4 mins. I may add a pack later as my balance & muscular control get better.
  
  
  • Tool Hangs - I hang on my tools for 20 sec, rest 20 sec, and then repeat. I do this until I fall off before 20 sec. I still use leashes for safety, but I try not to weight them. I do this wearing my BD Ice Gloves. Right now I'm getting 3 sets.
  
  
  • Tool Pull Ups - 2 staggered sets (one for each side), and then 1-2 sets with tools even. I do this with my BD Ice gloves and leashes. I suck at pullups, so I usually get about 5-8 reps each.
  
  
  • Tool Swings - 3-4 sets of 16 reps on each arm. I attach a light weight to my tools, hold my elbow near my ear, cock my arm back 90 degrees, and then swing smoothly mostly from elbow, cocking my wrist at the end. Suprisingly difficult, mostly in the forearms at the end of the swing. On Wednesdays I do a similar execise called a hammer swing.
  
  
  • Front-Side Raise - 3 sets of 8 reps w/ a light weight. Hold weights in each hand, keep arms straight and rotate at shoulders. Raise arms in parallel straight up in front, stop, spread arms until wieghts are to the side, stop, and lower smoothly for 1 rep. Then reverse the motion for the next rep.
  
  
  • Side Twist - Arms up - 2 sets of 8 reps - I grab a weighted cable that is redirected on a pulley below me. I keep my arm & shoulder locked off and twist at the torsoe to rotate and raid the weight. Rep consists of arm crossing the body for 8 reps and arm stretched away from the body for 8 reps for each side.
  
  
  • 1-Arm Pulldown - 3 sets of 8 reps for each side
  
  
  • Inclined Bench Press on Yoga Ball w/ Dumbells - 3 sets of 8-9 reps. 3 reps at each angled position (below, straight out from chest, slighty above)
  
  
  • Torso Side Raise - 3 sets of 10 reps with a weight.


• Thursday -
  
  
  • Calf Lockoffs w/ Boots
  
  
  • Tool Hangs
  
  
  • Tool Pull Ups
  
  
  • Front-Side Raise
  
  
  • Side Twist - Arms Down - Same as before, but twisting down with the pulley above me.
  
  
  • Hammer Swing - Same as tool swing, but with a light dumbell.
  
  
  • Bicep Curl - 3 sets of 8 reps
  
  
  • Bicycle Kick Crunches - 2-3 sets of 15-20 reps
  
  
  • Leg Raises
  
  

• Monday - Cycling - 16-18 miles in 1 hr w/ +1,000-2,000 ft gain. Longer days I intend on doing 30 mile rides in about 2 hours.


• Wednesday - Trail Running - 6 miles in 1 hr w/ 800 ft gain or 8 miles in 1.5 hrs w/ 1200 ft gain up Strawberry Creek. Currently I'm going for distance pacing, but later I might change to doing sprint intervals up the steep connector road to work on my anaerobic zone & lactic acid threshold.


• Friday - Stairmaster w/ Pack - 1/2 hour stairmaster workout with a 40-45lb pack. I can usually get 150 stories in this time period. Considering how quickly I rebound from this I'm either planning on increasing pack weight, pushing my pace harder, or doing more than one 1/2 hour set.

• Monday - Laps on routes 5.8-5.9 and on a crack. Maybe with a pack on. Work on crack technique.


• Wednesday - Climbing hardest routes I can w/ mountaineering boots on (5.9-5.10b, depending on nature of route). At the end of the night switch to climbing the hardest routes that I can with BD Ice Gloves on (usually 5.6, some 5.8s).


• Friday - This night I try to climb the hardest routes I can (usu. 5.10b), intermixed with slightly easier routes (5.8-5.10a).


• Weekends - I would like to get out once on weekends that I'm around to practice dry-tooling. I would also be up for sport and trad outdoors, but my ability to get out on weekends for that long is hard to do with consistency.