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Point Five Gully

Point Five Gully

Point Five Gully

Page Type: Route

Location: GlenCoe, Scotland, Europe

Object Title: Point Five Gully

Route Type: Ice Climb

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: V,5

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes


Page By: waldo

Created/Edited: Jul 3, 2005 / Oct 29, 2005

Object ID: 165700

Hits: 8985 

Page Score: 74.14%  - 5 Votes 

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It is a long walk in to the North Face of the Ben - 2 hours minimum.
Park at the North Face car park at Torlundy and head up the forest track following the signs to Ben Nevis.
Upon reaching the CIC hut contour the base of Tower Ridge and head for the right hand side of Observatory Ridge to the obvious cleft pf Point Five.

The route is subject to spindrift avalanches when the windy and when disturbed by climbers higher on the route

Route Description

1. 55 metres - climb a steep ice slab (70 degrees) followed by a section of vertical ice to the first belay. Good peg on left wall

2. 50 metres - Climb up 10 metres to a narrow vertical chimney continuing by bridging or front pointing to a small belay ledge. Peg on right wall.

3. 50 metres - The Rouge Pitch which is very difficult in lean conditions. Runner on right wall half way up. Climb up continuously steepening ice to a very steep wall of sometimes overhanging ice with a difficult exit.

4. Follow easier ground with several short ice walls to the summit.

Essential Gear

1X 60 metre rope is ideal
Technical Ice axes
Sharp crampons
6 X ice screws.
A Mixture of blade pegs
A Few medium and small nuts

Point Five - The Most Famous Ice Route In The World and justifiably so. Climbers cross the Channel and the Atlantic to climb this coveted route so make sure your early. Weekends will be particularly busy.

Additions and Corrections

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Viewing: 1-2 of 2    
BigLeeGreat link


Voted 9/10

Posted Dec 19, 2007 10:59 am
Ron WalkerPoint Five YouTube video

Ron Walker

Hasn't voted

Posted Mar 23, 2009 8:08 pm

Viewing: 1-2 of 2    


Ian Parnell leading pitch 4Ian Parnell leading Pitch 3...A busy Point 5 Gully on Ben...Me on the 3rd (Rogue) PitchChris at the top of pitch 4