Pointe Percée > Paroi de Gramusset

Overview

On the east side of Pointe Percée there is a beautiful wall called "Paroi de Gramusset".
Its name comes from the hut located below.
Some beautiful limestone, however a few bits can be loose.

Getting There... and Staying

You can park at le Col des Annes near Le Grand Bornand.
Then 400m to hike up to Gramusset hut.
And another 30 minutes to be at the bottom of the cliff.

The wall you can climb is partially lighted by the sun on the picture below :



With so many routes you can easily stay there for a few days.
You can either camp (a few spots are dedicated to that) or sleep at the Gramusset Hut (phone : +33 4 50 02 40 90).

Essential Gear

Two ropes of 50m with the usual quickdraws, slings and a few friends.
Helmet very much recommended, and all the abseiling equipment to descend.

Routes

Most of the routes where opened by Michel Piola and Thierry Perillat.
Other climbers participated : Hopfgartner, Chardonnet, Sanchez, Merminod, Poulaz, Gauthier, Sésiano, Schumacher, Chaudefoin, Tardivel, Robert, Bastides, Seydoux, Strapazon, Sprungli, Périnet et C. Périllat.

From left to right : (some routes have several pitches)

1. Secteur Moulinettes
Campus : 7a+
Le rouge de la honte : 7a
Starmania : 6c
Souffre douceur : 7a
Easy rider : 5c > 5c+
Projection privée : 6b+
Destination univers : 6b > 6a+ > 6a+

2. Secteur de la Rampe
Soleil rouge : 5c > 6a
Cachotterie : 6c > 6b > 6b+
Voie gaillard : 5b > 5b > 5c/A1 > A2/5b > 4b
L'inconnu de Toscane : 6c+ > 6a+ > 6a+ > 6b
La rampe à Gaston : 6b+ > 6a+ > 6c
Voie de la rampe : 4c/5c > 4b > 5b > 4b
Sorry angel : 6b+ > 6c+ > 7b+/AO > 6b
Ave Lucifer : 7a

3. Secteur Zauberberg
Le chemin de l'inespoir : 5b/A1 > 5b/A2 > A2/A3 > 5b/A1
Zauberberg : 7a > 7a > 6c+ > 6c > 7a
Projet Perillat : 7a
Quelque chose de Buenos Aires : 7a > 6c+ > 7b+/A0 > 6b+ > 6b
Sens unik > 6c > 6b+ > 6c+ > 7b+/A0 > 6c > 6b+
Spit de lache : 6c/A3
Le partage du monde : 6b > 6a > 6c+ > 6b > 6b

4. Secteur Ombre Chinoise
Delicatessen : 4b > 5c+/6A > 6b > 6c+ > 6c+ > 6b+
Un jour parfait : 6a > 6a > 6a+ > 6a > 6b
Mèche rebelle : 6a > 5c > 5c+/6a > 6a > 5b > 6a+
L'ombre chinoise : 6a+ > 6a > 3c > 5b > 6a > 4b > 5c > 5c

Climbing handbook

I strongly recommend you to buy the excellent topo guide called "Escalade Massif Bornes Aravis 2006".
It can be bought in the Gramusset hut or in shops in La Clusaz and Le Grand Bornand (20€).

You will need it to make sure you start in the right route, and it helps finance further equipment.

Enjoy !!

Images

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