OverviewPoncione di Cassina Baggio m. 2860
Poncione di Cassina Baggio is a mighty rocky castle, lying in upper Val Bedretto, Ticinesi Alps, on the right side of the road to Nufenen Pass, between the village of All'Acqua and the col. This fine mountain is one the typical one day shot summits in the Southern Swiss Alps, easy and fast to approach, with a fantastic rock and without coming down problems.
Getting ThereStarting point is Airolo (on the southern limit of Gotthard tunnel) fast to get here from Milano, Luzern or Zurich along the Gotthard highway.
From Airolo follow the Nufenen Pass road.
There are two ways to approach Poncione di Cassina Baggio:
- if you want to take it easy, you can spend the night at Capanna Piansecco SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) mt. 1980; the starting point is the village of All'Acqua, along the Nufenen Pass Road (45 minutes to approach the hut). From the hut in less than 1 hour to the beginning of climbing routes.
- otherwise you can reach the peak directly from the Nufenen Pass road, parking the car near a clear hairpin towards left at 2090 m. (a few km. after All'Acqua). From the hairpin a mainly level track starts, then it becomes steeper, rising along some stones slopes towards the face (1,10 hour from the hairpin).
Routes overview- Normal route is an interesting walking with some little climbing passages near the summit, normally used to coming down
- SSE Ridge is a fantastic, complete and amusing route, difficult enough to undertake a bit and not enough to stress
- difficulty of IV UIAA (some passes of IV+) - 400 m drop - requires one rappel after first tower
- SE Ridge amusing route, easier than the previous, shorter (250 m drop) useful for training
- South face
On this sunny face 400 m. drop a few amazing modern routes had been climbed in the 90s. The wall is characterized by a first slabby section and a second one rather steep. From left to right:
- Tanti Auguri V+, 400 m.
- Tage der Kalte VII, 400
- Piccadilly Bedretto VI+ (or V+, A0), 400 m.
- Herbstwind VII-, 400 m.
- Dr. Grüen Nils VI, 400 m.
Descent from the South face routes is done rappelling the routes.
HutCapanna Piansecco mt. 1988 (CAS BELLINZONA) +41918691214
Guardian: Enrica Vella 6781 Bedretto
When To ClimbStarting from June till September
AccomodationsNot allowed and not necessary, but you can use without problems a little tent on the meadows in the southern side of the ridge between the Poncione di Cascina Baggio and Poncione di Maniò
If you leave far from here and want to make a fine rock campaign in this area there are some Club Alpin Suisse Huts that can host you.
- Bergsee Hutte - 2374 m - tel 4465435 - 40 beds - open in summer
from Göschenen Alp dike in less more than 1 hour
- Albert Heim Hutte - 2541 m - 100 beds - tel 4467745 - open in summer and spring weekends
from Tiefenbach (on the road from Andermatt to Furkapass) till a car parking (white route) then in less than 1 hour
- Furka Zentrum - at Furka pass - a lot of space - very cheap !
- Capanna Piansecco - 1980 m - open in weekends
from All'Acqua (on the road from Airolo to Nufenen Pass) in less than 1 hour
no Huts, only an Hotel near the pass or in Andermatt or Disentis
Other "one day shots" in this areaAs I think a little difficult to group some summits that do not belong to a single Alp chain or group, I like to put here some links to some amusing mountains you can climb in one day (as I did without stress coming from near Milano):
Bergsee Schijen - starting point Göschenen (north of Gotthard)
Gross Schijen - starting point Oberalp Pass
Piz Prevat - starting point Rodi (south of Gotthard)
Gross Furkahorn - starting point Furkapass
Chli Bielenhorn - starting point Furkapass
Guidebooks and maps
"Arrampicate sportive e moderne tra Varese e Canton Ticino" AA.VV,
Ed. Versante Sud 1998