Poseidon Adventure, 5.10

Poseidon Adventure, 5.10

2nd Pitch- 120’- 5.10/This is a burly pitch. My partner on this climb was a solid 5.11 Indian Creek climber and backed off the pitch. The best approach in climbing this flared chimney in my opinion is not to stem or try and jam the off width, but rather chimney up the slick walls, fighting for every inch. Don’t trust the crystallized quartz features as they are extremely slick. Good friction opportunities will be few and far between. I placed one 6”, two 5” and could have easily placed three 4” pieces before I could start fist jamming into the crack. The finish involves solid jamming, 3” to 2”, before you pull up and out of the chimney. Climb up and left onto a significant ledge with a slung block. Set up a gear belay (6”) below the obvious 5.8 crack above. Poseidon Adventure, 5.10, III, Lighthouse Tower, River Road Towers and Crags, Moab, UT, October, 2010
Dow Williams
on Oct 18, 2010 11:10 am
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
Image ID: 671846

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