Prostredny Hrot Climber's Log
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|Gorzi||Bráni?ka couloir |
Date Climbed: Mar 22, 2012
|From Ve?ká Studená dolina via couloir leading to Bráni?ka. Descent via Dubkeho lávka.|
|Posted Mar 23, 2012 8:12 pm|
|Ivona||Winter ascent via Still couloir |
Date Climbed: Feb 12, 2012
|Fantastic weather and snow conditions.Pure pleasure of finishing Tatra's Crown.It was the last 14th peak.Climbed with Natalia.|
Martin's couloir,South face 29.01.2012
We reached only Prostredna pass without the top of Prostredny Hrot.
Climbed with Michal.
|Posted Feb 15, 2012 4:34 pm|
|jck||South-east pillar (Komarickis' Route) |
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2011
|After the unsuccesful attempt two years earlier along the Kostoly ridge finally reached the top via south-east pillar. |
Long and complicated route. Get some more direct and bit more difficult variants (IV) in the lower part. The rock of mixed quality, very bad in some places.
Fair weather (fog, clouds, rain) forced us to belay even in the easier places.
Descended via Franz gully to the connection with normal route through Lavka Dubkeho and further to Mala Studena Valley.
Climbed with Witek.
|Posted Jun 24, 2011 11:06 am|
|KRZYS||Normal Path - Dubke's route |
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010
|Ascent - Dubke's route, Descent - Ciemisty Zleb. Argument with partner under Cagasic route. Finally go by normal path, via Pass under Zlota Sciana. Unfortunately monotonus and similar to turistic way, but one from the best summit vievs in High Tatra Mountains ever - clear 360' panorama. Descent by complicated chutes system. Sad end of Tatras Crow, and probably end of Family Mountaniering for the time begin.|
|Posted Jul 17, 2010 9:25 am|
|mooliczek||via Dubke's Route and Maly Prostredny Hrot ridge |
Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2009
|Fantastic and exciting route. |
Starting from Teryho Chata, moving toward the NF of Prostredny Hrot, we reached a couloir leading to Za Žltou Stenou pass, where (after having visited quickly Zlta Stena) a short, but sharp ridge opens the gate to Dubke's Route, full of scrambling passages. Reaching Prostredne Sedlo pass and having climbed quickly Zlta Veza, we moved toward the summit, directly through the ridge of Maly Prostredny Hrot. Very nice route with a few "complicated" moments, excellent views and great, exposed and airy parts (especially while sticking close to the west face of MPH). Beautiful panorama from both summits. Descent via Still couloir, down to Mala Studena Valley.
Climbed in perfect weather conditions, with Igi.
|Posted Jan 11, 2010 11:19 am|
|Tomek Lodowy||Dubke's Route (Via Lavka Dubkeho) |
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2006
|Wonderful ascent in perfect weather conditions by the classic route of Ernst Dubke and Johann Franz senior from 1905. Interesting route in incredible scenery, a few more demanding places(UIAA I), exposition and a bit complicated orientation in very steep rocky terrain. |
Gorgeous panorama of High Tatras from the summit.
Descent the same way, a bit risky(crumbling!) and very very exhausting...(on way back down I climbed also Zlta Veza peak(2385) through Prostredne Sedlo pass). I've waited for that so long, what a great day it was!
|Posted Sep 28, 2006 4:20 pm|
|Route of Cagasic|
|Posted Feb 14, 2006 1:04 am|