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Pumacioletto
Mountain/Rock

Pumacioletto

 
Pumacioletto

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Parma, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.38100°N / 10.05940°E

Object Title: Pumacioletto

County: Emilia - Romagna

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 5545 ft / 1690 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Dec 27, 2016 / May 19, 2017

Object ID: 990689

Hits: 205 

Page Score: 83.1%  - 16 Votes 

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Overview

Pumacioletto 1690 m



A mountain for every season



Pumacioletto or Rocca Pumacioletto 1690 m is a slender rocky peak belonging to Appennino Parmense Orientale, a chain located in the Eastern part of Parma province, allined between Passo Cirone on the Western end and Passo Lagastrello on the Eastern one.
From the main Apennine ridge, located along the watershed between Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna, a few ridges branch off to the North. Pumacioletto is placed along one of these secondary ridges and precisely along the ridge starting Northward from the main watershed, at first forming Rocca Pumaciolo and soon after Pumacioletto, divided by a broad saddle named Sella Pumaciolo.


Pumacioletto in late autumnPumacioletto in late autumn


Walkers can climb the interesting normal route from Rifugio Lagoni and its initial variant starting from Passo della Colla, which can be attended in any season, in wintertime obviously with the necessary gear. For climbers the interest of the mountains focuses mainly on South West wall, where different multi-pitch climbing routes have been realized and the nearby Falesia of Asfodeli, with several single pitch climbs.

The grassy slope below Pumacioletto S ridge
The grassy slope below the SW wall
Pumacioletto summit cross
The summit cross
Summit of Pumacioletto in winter
On the summit in winter

Getting There

Road approach

The closest town is Parma, a 200.000 inhabitants town located 110 km from Milan and 90 km from Bologna, while the closest villages are Corniglio and Bosco di Corniglio, both located on Emilia-Romagna side.

Coming from Milan or Bologna (A1 motorway) exit Parma main and take the SP 665 (Massese) towards Langhirano and Capoponte; at Capoponte traffic roundabout take the right exit, reaching Corniglio, Bosco di Corniglio and the locality named Cancelli, where you are at a road fork. Turn to left and take the gravel road running inside the beautiful Val Parma Forest getting after about 5 km. to the locality named Lagoni, meaning Great Twin Lakes (65 km. from Parma).

New tender beech leaves around Lagoni (Great Lakes)
Lago Gemio in Spring
Admiring the summit view from Pumacioletto
Admiring the summit view
Lago Gemio, the start of Pumacioletto approach
Lago Gemio in early winter

Pumacioletto Normal routes

Pumacioletto Normal route from Lagoni (North-West slope and North Ridge


From Lagoni m. 1342 take the trail n. 711/a to Sella Pumaciolo starting near a stone-fountain just in front of the hut. After a paved section and a few ups and downs you reach a junction with some signposts. At this point leave the main trail and turn decidedly to the left (signposted Pumacioletto and Passo della Colla), beginning to rise at first on open ground, then entering the beech forest and reaching a saddle in the woods with signposts (here it converges the second normal route coming from from the Passo della Colla), Sella Pumacioletto. From the saddle turn sharply to the right and follow the good track in the beautiful forest of high altitude twisted beech, coming briefly out on open ground with a fine panoramic view of surrounding peaks.Walk up the wide ridge of blocks and vegetation, quickly reaching the rock summit with the summit cross.

Descent - reversing the route


Pumacioletto in winter seen from Lago Gemio inf.
Pumacioletto in winter seen from Lagoni
Beech wood along Pumacioletto standard route
Beech wood along Normal route
Signpost on Sella Pumacioletto
Signposts on Sella Pumacioletto
Late autumn on Pumacioletto standard route
On Normal route in late autumn
Pumacioletto standard route in wintertime
On Normal route in full winter
Lago di Ledro seen from Pregasina ridges
On the summit in summertime



Pumacioletto Normal route from Passo della Colla

The itinerary begins from Passo della Colla 1467 m., a mountain road pass that connects Lagoni with Valditacca. This route is shorter than the previous one and can be considered a variant, as it joins the previous route on Sella Pumacioletto. Advisable only to people starting from the side of Valditacca. From the pass take the left path that enters the wood (n. 737) and climbs steeply up the beech wood getting Sella Pumacioletto, where it meets the previous route.

The two itinerary can be combined.

Pumacioletto summit view in late autumn
Summit view in late autumn

Pumacioletto summit view in winter
Summit view in winter



Descent: reversing the route

Climbing routes

SW face

Access to the climbing sector - From Lagoni m. 1342 take the trail n. 711/a to Sella Pumaciolo starting near a stone-fountain just in front of the hut. After a paved section and a few ups and downs you reach a junction with some signposts. Ignore the left branch (Pumacioletto Normal route) and continue along the main path, soon reaching a second fork. Ignore the right branch and continue always on the main path, reaching a steep short grassy slope just before getting Sella Pumaciolo. From here climb up the grassy slope to reach the base of SW wall.


Smooth corner on
Smooth corner on "Benvenuto Alessandro"
Rock climbing on Pumacioletto
Route "Il Ferramenta e il Piacentino"
Route Save 2000 - Pumacioletto
Route Save 2000"


The routes on SW face starting from left:

- Dies Irae
- Gian Franco Bertè
- Chicco
- Save 2000
- Sasso Volante
- Il Ferramenta e il Piacentino
- Spigolo Sud

Climbing a corner on
A corner on "Benvenuto Alessandro

Pumacioletto, the last dihedral on the route
Pumacioletto, last dihedral on "Dies Irae"



S face

- Benvenuto Alessandro

Falesia degli Asfodeli

 
Asfodeli crag
Falesia degli Asfodeli



It's a fine single-pitch climbing sector located on a crag just on the left of Pumacioletto SW wall. There are 25 single pitch length up to 28 meters and with difficulty between 5b and 7b.

Approach - From Lagoni take the trail n. 711/a to Sella Pumaciolo starting near a stone-fountain just in front of the hut. After a paved section and a few ups and downs you reach a junction with some signposts. Ignore the left branch (Pumacioletto Normal route) and continue along the main path; after 5 minutes the crag appears on the left side.

Red Tape

 
Parco Nazionale Appennino Tosco-Emiliano
 

Pumacioletto is located inside Parco Nazionale Appennino Tosco-Emiliano, established in 1997. Fires are strictly forbidden and the whole fauna and flora is protected. Don’t disturb fauna and other mountaineering and hikers’ peacefulness with every kind of noise.

When to Climb

Rock climbing - The best period goes from May to October

Hiking - It’s possible to hike all year round on Pumacioletto; winter ascents require the essential gear as crampons and an ice-axe

Where to stay

- Rifugio Lagoni at Great Twin Lakes m.1507 – 5 km. by car from Cancelli – always open in the week-ends, all the day from june to september

-Rifugio Lagdei m. 1250 – 1 km. by car from Cancelli

Bibliography

"ArrampicaParma - climbing, bouldering & mountaineering" - Alberto Rampini and Silvia Mazzani Pareti Edizioni 2011 (II updated edition)

"Appennino Ligure e Tosco-Emiliano" - M. Salvo, D. Canossini - Guida dei Monti d'Italia

“Alto Appennino Parmense Est” Map 1:50.000 (CAI-Regione Emilia-Romagna)

Meteo Forecast

Meteo Emilia-Romagna

Images