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Punta Bioula Tour de Notre Dame Punta Bianca Clocher de Djouan La Roletta Traverse

 
Punta Bioula Tour de Notre Dame Punta Bianca Clocher de Djouan La Roletta Traverse

Page Type: Route

Location: Aosta Valley Valsavarenche Rhêmes Saint Georges Rhêmes Notre Dame Municipalities, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.59338°N / 7.16479°E

Object Title: Punta Bioula Tour de Notre Dame Punta Bianca Clocher de Djouan La Roletta Traverse

Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: A long day

Rock Difficulty: Class 3

Difficulty: From F to PD+

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: OsvaldoCardellina

Created/Edited: Mar 10, 2016 / Apr 29, 2016

Object ID: 966947

Hits: 640 

Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

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Birchen Overview



A long ridge acts, starting from the Baltea and to South, as a partition between the Savara and Rhêmes Valleys reaching its end with the Punta Basei (3338m).
After some small hilltop as the Mont Blanc de Rhêmes (2205m), the Mont Paillasse (2414m), Punta Chamoussière (2942m) and the beautiful but little known and visited Punta del Ran (3372m), the watershed forms a first intermediate section which ends with Col of Sort (2964m), immediately to the East of Rhêmes Notre Dame (1725m). A series of three Peaks of greater height (Bioula, Bianca Roletta), interspersed with a jagged Tour (Notre Dame) and a Bell pendant (Clocher de Djuan) make up this intermediate section on the side Valsavarenche accompaning the entrance into this valley just before the Degioz Capital until it reaches the village of Eaux Rousses (1666m), while on the opposite side "slides and flows" between the two Municipalities of Rhêmes. Then the ridge continues "completely undisturbed" until you reach the border with Piedmont and Isère Valley nearby the important Basei and Galisia (3338m, 3346m), after overtaking "calmly" those of Entrelor, Pèrcia, Taou Blanc, Leynir, Rosset, Vaudala, Nivoletta.



Bioula, Tours de N. Dame, Bianca, Clocher de Djuan, La Roletta,

by Gorzi


Una lunga cresta funge, partendo dalla Dora Baltea e verso Sud, da divisorio tra le Valli Savara e Rhêmes raggiungendo al suo termine la Punta Basei (3338 m).

Dopo alcune piccole Sommità come il Mont Blanc de Rhêmes (2205 m), il Mont Paillasse (2414 m), la Punta Chamoussière (2942 m) e la bella ma poco conosciuta e frequentata Punta del Ran (3372 m), lo spartiacque forma un primo tratto intermedio che si conclude con il Col di Sort (2964 m), subito ad Est di Rhêmes Notre Dame (1725 m). Una serie di altre tre Cime di maggiore altezza (Bioula, Bianca, Roletta), intervallata da una Tour frastagliata (Notre Dame) e da un Campanile pendente (Clocher de Djuan) compongono questo tratto intermedio che sul lato Valsavarenche accompagna l'ingresso in questa valle poco prima del capoluogo di Degioz fino a raggiungere il Villaggio di Eaux Rousses (1666 m), mentre sull'opposto versante "scorre" tra i due Comuni di Rhêmes. Poi la cresta prosegue "indisturbata" fino a raggiungere i confini col Piemonte e Valdisère nei pressi delle Cime Basei e Galisia (3338 m, 3346 m), dopo aver scavalcato in "tutta tranquillità" Entrelor, Pèrcia, Taou Blanc, Leynir, Rosset, Vaudala e Nivoletta.



From Bioula towards Notre Dame Tower & Bianca,

by Giuseppe Lamazzi 1994


Bioula, in "patois" Biula, named this by Birch present on side Valsavarenche (see Forquin de), while Roletta comes from "Pinus cembra" then Roley Aroletta.
Other two names are shared equally between the valleys with Notre Dame for Tower Djuan for Clocher, sister to Punta Bianca, lying towards the Savara on Djuan Montagne, so dear to the Notary Lorenzo Chabod. First climbers, faithful to the local place names, however, have preferred to transform the primitive name Clocher Chabod in that of Djuan both because it dominates the homonymous alp, both symmetrical assonance and for place names with the Tour de Notre Dame. Remains the Punta Bianca , being rocky, this color highlights little, if not a speck residual snowfield on the Eastern Edge of the dominant "Parei Neire" or the Black Wall. Or in case of snowfall that usually cloaked its North-northeast Walls, Northwest and Southwest. But it is something quite common knowledge that with the snow all become white Summit not distinguished from each other.
Amongst the five Peaks of these the really famous one is the Bioula much that the Italy's King Vittorio Emanuele II° had built a mule track from the Real Camping de "Orveille" reach the Top. Today, unfortunately, is in advanced stage of decay, although it marks the beginning of the Mountaineering up to then to the "classical period" of the Twenties Thirties, where they were "ransacked" even minor peaks. Aged postcard taking one back to a distant time, as well as to the ridge crossings of this type ...



To valley floor nearby Degioz Chief town,

by Osw 1994


La Bioula, in "patois" Biula, dal nome della betulla presente sulla Valsavarenche (vedi Forquin de), mentre Roletta deriva dal "pinus cembra" o Aroletta e Roley.
Gli altri due toponimi vengono spartiti equamente tra le due vallate con Notre Dame per la Torre e Djuan per il Clocher, gemello alla Punta Bianca, riverso verso la Savara sulla Montagne de Djuan, tanto cara al Notaio Lorenzo Chabod. I primi salitori, fedeli alla toponomastica locale, han però preferito tramutar il primigenio nome di Clocher Chabod in quello di Djuan sia perché domina l'omonima alpe, sia per un'assonanza simmetrica e toponomastica con la Tour de Notre Dame. Rimane la Punta Bianca che, essendo rocciosa, di questo colore n'evidenzia poco, se non una macchiolina residuo di nevaio sulla Cresta Est dominante la "Parei Neire" o Parete Nera. Od in caso di nevicata in genere ammantante le sue Pareti Nord-nordest, Nordovest e Sudovest. Cosa ben risaputa che con neve tutte le Sommità divengon bianche non distinguendosi l'una dall'altra.
Di queste Cime l'unica veramente famosa é la Bioula tanto che il Re Vittorio Emanule II° aveva fatto costruire una mulattiera che dal Campeggio reale de "Orveille" raggiunge la Sommità. Oggi purtroppo risulta in avanzato grado di disfacimento, anche se segna l'inizio dell'Alpinismo fino a poi raggiungere il "periodo classico" degli Anni Venti e Trenta, dove venivano "rovistate" anche le Cime cosiddette minori. Cartolina invecchiata che riporta ad un tempo lontano, così come le traversate in cresta di questo tipo ...


Punta Bioula with Eastern Crest (left) from North 2016
Becca del Ran <i>(3372m)</i> & Punta Bioula by North 2016
Becca del Ran North-northwestern Face by North 2016
Becca del Ran  Punta Bioula to Tour de Notre Dame 2016
Ran Bioula Tour de Notre Dame & Bianca by NW 2016

First Ascents

Punta Bioula (3414m): unknown.

Tours de Notre Dame (3355m): Michele Baratono and Federico Chabod; September 01th, 1924, from Lorguibet Pass (3185m) and East Face. Integral ascent by Northern ridge: Domenico Caresio, Damiano Gratton and Franco Perino; August 24th, 1968.

Punta Bianca (3440m): unknown or surely by Giovan Battista Bozzino; Summer 1911, from Djuan Basin by Eastern Crest.

Clocher de Djuan (3324m): Michele Baratono, Renato Chabod, Amilcare Crétier and Leonardo Pession; July 16th, 1926, with traverse to Punta Bianca. Second: Camillo Bianco, Emilio Micheli and Emilio Muller; August 1935; third: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone and secured from bottom by Giuseppe Lamazzi; August 18th, 1985.

La Roletta (3385m): unknown.

First Crossing Bioula-Bianca-Clocher-La Roletta: Camillo Bianco, Emilio Micheli and Emilio Muller; August 1935.

First Crossing Nequedé Pass-Bioula-Bianca-La Roletta: Lorenzo Rossi di Montelera and Lindo Lucianaz; August 06th, 1976.

Integral Traverse: Osvaldo Cardellina and Giuseppe Lamazzi; August 18th, 1985, from Bioula to Col de Sort (2964m).

Watershed Rhêmes/Savara from Punta Bioula 2015
Bioula Tour de ND Bianca Clocher de Djuan Roletta 2015
Punta Bioula & Tour de Notre Dame Western Faces 2015
Rhêmes By Tour de Notre Dame to Djuan Clocher 2015
Bioula Traverse ... Clocher de Djuan by Rhêmes 2015









Getting There

By car:

  • From TORINO, MILANO, etc: Motorway A5. Exit at IVREA or Quincinetto (PIEDMONT) also Pont Saint Martin, Verrès, Chatillon, AOSTA East (Nus) and West (Aymavilles) Municipalities (AOSTA Valley).

    From IVREA Town to Aymavilles, Villeneuve Municipalities.



    Degioz Village from Punta Bioula, by andrea.it


    From Aymavilles to Villeneuve and by this to Valsavarenche Valley or directly by Villeneuve
    .
    From Aymavilles (646m) towards Villeneuve (670m) with Regional Road in South of Baltea and from Villeneuve to Savarenche Valley and Dégioz Chief town (1541m).

    From Aosta Town (East) or from Courmayeur-Resort (West) towards Villeneuve Common

    From Aosta Town or from Courmayeur, through the State Road number 27, towards Villeneuve (670m); also by the Motorway A5 from Aosta West (Aymavilles) or from Morgex Communes. From these to the Rhêmes Valley, Introd (880m), Rhêmes Saint Georges (1171m) Rhêmes Notre Dame (1725m) Municipalities.



    Watershed between Valsavarenche/Rhêmes, by livioz


    It is not necessary to take Motorway A5: you can drive on State Road n° 26, in the direction of AOSTA - IVREA - TURIN.


By plane:
  • Aeroporto Internazionale "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe (Aosta)

Route Description

Ancient ascent, followed by an old crossing "classic" between the two World Wars, but now fallen out of fashion. Remain the ascent to Bioula from Valsavara Slope and that of La Roletta from Rhêmes, while the climbing on crest is something reserved for the few. Dedicated to mountaineers lovers of old mountains and unusual itineraries.
A)- From Valsavarenche: by Degioz Chief town (1541m) reach to the Southwest through the trail n° 8/8B the wide "Pavillon Royal de Chasse" (2168m); from this, flexing with a diagonal route towards the Northwest with the large and evident mule track n° 8A easily reach, after bypassing a large saddle to the West respect of the characteristic Forquin Fourquin de bioula entering a small secondary vallon, the Summit of Bioula (EE/F; 4h'00/4h'30 from Degioz Village). The entire and integral traverse on ridge presents the passages with transition from the I°/II°/II°+ to the III°-/III°+ (Tour de Notre Dame, where you should maintain the same path both uphill and downhill) and of II°+/III°- for the Clocher de Djuan. The next North Ridge leading to Punta Bianca, formed by easy rocks, is not difficult as the following traverse to the Roletta, Clocher excluded; while the descent from La Roletta can be performed with return both in Valsavarenche and Rhêmes (A/PD/PD+; 2h'30/3h'00; from 7h'00 to 8h'00 in total).
B)- From Rhêmes Valley: from Chanavey Village (1697m) go up to the Sort Pass (2964m) through the trail n° 7, or reach the same along the path n° 9 with departure from Rhêmes Notre Dame (1725m). From the hill climb to the La Roletta by it easy southwestern Slope on some sparce traces between debris and rotten broken blocks. For the crossing in the opposite direction, ie from the South to the North, the same considerations, time and difficulties. Note that in this case the descent can be made almost only
1)- going back and re-performing the entire path on the ridge until the La Roletta (3385m), maybe doing some upgrades to the East under the Tour de Notre Dame Clocher.
2)- down almost exclusively in Valsavarenche. To avoid the descent via the North ridge towards the Pass of Nequedé or Néquede (3022m) and the next Punta del Ran (3372m).



Just above the triple Fourquin de Bioula,

by Osw 1994


Una'ascensione antica, seguita da una vecchia traversata "classica" tra le due Guerre Mondiali, ma ormai caduta di moda. Rimangono la salita alla Bioula dal Versante Valsavara e quella de La Roletta da Rhêmes Notre Dame, mentre la traversata in cresta é cosa riservata a pochi. Per alpinisti amatori di vecchie montagne e di itinerari inusuali.
A)- Dalla Valsavarenche: dal Comune di Degioz raggiungere verso Sudovest tramite il sentiero n° 8/8B il "Pavillon Royal de Chasse" (2168 m); da questo svoltando a Nordovest con la mulattiera n° 8A arrivare facilmente, dopo aver oltrepassato una larga sella ad Occidente del caratteristico Forquin o Fourquin de Bioula entrando in un valloncello secondario, alla Vetta della Bioula (EE/F; 4h'00/4h'30 da Degioz). La traversata in cresta presenta passaggi dal I°II°/II°+ al III°-/III°+ per la Tour de Notre Dame (dove conviene mantenere la stessa via sia in salita che in discesa) e di II°+/III°- al Clocher de Djuan. La successiva Cresta Nord che conduce alla Punta Bianca, lineare nel suo sviluppo e formata da facili rocce, non presenta difficoltà come la traversata verso La Roletta, Clocher escluso; mentre la discesa da quest'ultima può essere effettuata con rientro tramite il Col de Sort sia in Valsavarenche (attraverso un'oceanica pietraia e sentiero n° 8/8B/8C) che a Rhêmes (A/PD/PD+; 2h'30/3h'00; da 7 a 8h'00 in totale).
B)- Dalla Val di Rhêmes: dal Villaggio di Chanavey risalire al Col di Sort (2964 m) tramite il sentiero n° 7, oppure pervenire al medesimo per mezzo del sentiero n° 9 con partenza questa volta da Rhêmes Notre Dame (1725m). Dal passo scalare La Roletta con il facile Versante Sudovest con esili tracce tra detriti e blocchi frantumati. Per la traversata in senso opposto, cioé da Meridione a Settentrione, stesse considerazioni, tempo e difficoltà. Da notare che in questo caso la discesa può essere effettuata soltanto
1)- ritornando indietro e rieffettuando l'intero percorso in cresta sino alla Roletta (3385 m), magari effettuando ad Est alcuni aggiramenti sotto Tour de Notre Dame e Clocher.
2)- scendendo quasi esclusivamente in Valsavarenche. Da evitare la discesa tramite la cresta Nord verso il Passo di Nequedé o Néquede (3022 m) e la successiva Punta del Ran.

Difficulties & Equipment

Difficulties

From F+ to PD-/PD+ for the two ways described above.

Dal F+ al PD-/PD+ per le due vie descritte.

Watershed between Becca del Ran & Punta Bioula 2016
MOON ... Becca del Ran & Bioula & Bianca from NE 2016
Becca del Ran & Punta Bioula from Northwest 2016
Ran Bioula Notre Dame Tower & Punta Bianca 2016
Bioula La Roletta Crossing  Roletta  from SW 2015


Equipment

For Hiking or for Mountaineering, preferably with rope in relation to the route to be carried out.

Da Escursionismo o da Alpinismo, meglio se con corda in relazione all'itinerario da effettuarsi.

Images

Becca del Ran North-northwestern Face by North 2016Becca del Ran <i>(3372m)</i> & Punta Bioula by North 2016Watershed between Savara/Rhêmes by Ozein 2016Mountain Friends 1963/2013 Bioula, emilius & Dean 2000Southern RANGES Summary Towards Point Bioula 1994Punta Bioula with Eastern Crest (left) from North 2016The ridge between...
Watershed Rhêmes/Savara from Punta Bioula 2015H)- South From Bioula Summit to Low Valsavara 1994Punta Bioula Northern Face & Eastern Shoulder 2016Rhêmes By Tour de Notre Dame to Djuan Clocher 2015Punta Bioula & Tour de Notre Dame Western Faces 2015MOON ... Becca del Ran & Bioula & Bianca from NE 2016Punta Bioula Northern Face with East Shoulder 2016
[ View Gallery - 16 More Images ]