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Punta Dallago-Via della Vipera
Route

Punta Dallago-Via della Vipera

 
Punta Dallago-Via della Vipera

Page Type: Route

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.50043°N / 12.03801°E

Object Title: Punta Dallago-Via della Vipera

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: III, IV, 1p IV+

Number of Pitches: 5

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: RenatoG

Created/Edited: Sep 7, 2008 / Sep 9, 2008

Object ID: 440019

Hits: 4529 

Page Score: 82.48%  - 15 Votes 

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Overview

Vipera route - TOPO
Click to enlarge

Via della Vipera, meaning Viper's route in italian, is an amusing trad-climbing route running on Punta Dallago.

Punta Dallago is a little summit, 2470m high, rising on west of Forcella Averau. It has a nice rocky face on its south side, while its north side goes down with short slopes of grass and gravels toward Falzarego pass.

Via della Vipera route was first climbed in 1969 by Franz Dallago and G. Peretti: it's an easy route, but very amusing and various.

Very advisable for all climbers searching an undemanding route, not crowded, easy to protect.

Difficulty: IV with a short passage of IV+ UIAA in the pitch 1
Lenght: 145m, 5 pitches
Altitude: 2340m-2470m
Rock quality: Very good
Best season to climb: since june to october


Approach

Leave the car at the parking of chairlift Fedare, placed along the route from Colle Santa Lucia to Passo Giau. Take the chairlift to Averau hut (Forcella Nuovolau): from there, follow downhill the trail 441 until you are under Punta Dallago; then, leave the trail and walk toward the bottom of the south face, rising up meadows and gravel slopes. The start of the route is shown by a red piton (about 30min from the arrival of chairlift).

If you don't want to take the chairlift, you can start to walk from the parking by the path nr 464 to Averau hut: when you are close to the chairlift arrival, take on your left the path 441; from there, like the approach by the chairlift (about 1h from the parking)
Averau view
Descending to Fedare, in the background Monte Averau (P. Dallago, not visible, is on the left)

Route Description

 
Pitch 1 - the crux
P1

 
Pitch 2
P2

 
Pitch 3 - the black slabs
P3

 
Pitch 4 - the chimney
P4

 
Pitch 5
P5

 
Pitch 5 - the summit
Summit

Via della Vipera route is relatively easy and amusing: the route climbs the south face, running on slabs, overcoming a little and easy roof and a chimney.

Belays are all equipped with traditional pitons or with cords in tunnels.
There aren't pegs along the pitches: it is necessary to protect the climb with your own gears.

Pitch 1: Climb up an easy cliff (IV-, 1 bad piton) to a little overhang: climb the overhang (1 p. IV+), then with easier climb (III) to the belay (30m, no good pegs, IV, III, 1p IV+, belay on 2 pegs)

Pitch 2: Traverse on the left to a quite vertical ramp: climb up the ramp (IV), then go up straight on easier slabs (IV-) to the terrace where is placed a belay on piton and tunnels (40m, no pegs, IV)

Pitch 3: Climb a beautiful black slab (III, IV-) to an easy ramp with grass (I): at the end of the ramp, on a little notch it's placed the belay on 2 pitons (40m, no pegs, III, IV-)

Pitch 4: Enter in the chimney on the left (a p. III+), then climb it (III, II) to the exit on a terrace: belay on 2 pitons (25m, no pitons, III, 1p III+)

Pitch 5: Climb up a cliff slightly on the left, then directly (IV-); keep climbing up (III) until you arrive to the summit: belay on tunnel (25m, no pegs, IV-, III)

Descent
From the nice summit (wonderful panorama!) walk toward Falzarego pass (north) until you meet trail nr 441: follow it toward right (east) to Forcella Averau, then to Averau hut and the chairlift arrival (about 20min from the summit)

Essential Gear

Helmet
Slings and cords
Some friends medium size
Some pitons and nuts
An hammer, to hit, in case, the belay pitons
Two 60m ropes are advised

External Links

Weather forecast
Forecast for Veneto Dolomites and Prealps (by ARPAV)


Accomodations
At the start of Fedare chairlift, a small but nice Hotel/Hut: very good food!
Rifugio Fedare hut

At the arrival of Fedare chairlift:
Rifugio Averau hut

Maps and Guides
Best map 1:25000 is Tabacco foglio 03 "Cortina d'Ampezzo e Dolomiti Ampezzane"
Best guide: M. Bernardi, "Arrampicare a Cortina d'Ampezzo e dintorni", ed. Athesia (also in german)

Images

Averau viewVipera route - TOPOPitch 5Pitch 3 - the black slabsPitch 4 - the chimneyPitch 2Pitch 5 - the summit
Pitch 1 - the crux