OverviewThe "Punta dei tre Scarperi" (or Dreischusterspitze in german) 3152m, is the highest peak of the "Dolomiti di Sesto" group, and the most northerly mountain over 3000 meters high.
Its importance can be compared to the major surrounding Dolomites mountains , like the “Cristallo”, the “Antelao” or the “Croda dei Toni”.
It is a mysterious and regal mountain, and from north looks like a majestic pyramid, while the east and west takes the form of a jagged ridge with walls cut by gullies.
Great is the effect of isolation for those who climbs the slopes, marked especially by the length and difficulty of access. Its flanks doesn’t host any refuges or bivouacs, no "via ferrata" or important paths. Just few way indicated by rare stone piles.
The length of the approach, the lack of convenient trails, wild and fearful aspect that inspires the whole chain mean that the ascent of this peak (the normal route) is reserved only for highly experienced climbers of limestone with difficulty grade of I° and II° and some steps of III°. Also it reguires good sense of orientation.
The first part of the normal route east (Via Grohmann) is not easy to find but it is not particularly difficult, apart the access channel which is very landslide. The second part of the climb is long and with more difficulty, alternating stretches of I and II degree, while in the channels of the final approach to the top you will find a few brief grade III.
It is important to keep in mind that it is a long climb with some problems of orientation, with the greatest difficulties concentrated in the final and that requires great experience in this kind of environment, not to be underestimated. The approach may be done either from the west, from “Val Campo di Dentro” or from “Val Fiscalina”.
The original name of the mountain was given in the 1770 as: “Drei Schuster Berg” and after in the 1845 as ”Gsellknoten”.
The first and the definitive name, would be connected to a local legend about three shoemakers of Sesto that were hunting for deers.
Other minor summit of the group are: “Punta Piccola degli Scarperi (Kleiner Schuster)” 3095m, the “Punta Lavina Bianca (Weißlahnspitz)” 2987m and the “Lastron degli Scarperi (Schusterplatte)” 2957m
Getting TherePunta dei tre Scarperi is placed on the north part of "Dolomiti di Sesto" group. Group of mountains on the border between "Alto Adige" and "Veneto" regions.
The approach can be done from both sides, but the Alto Adige side, has two valleys at the foot of the peak, and two refuges far from the summit but the only useful.
"Val Campo di Dentro" and "Val Fiscalina" start from the village of "Sesto" 1316m, and they begin very close from eachothers.
"Val Campo di Dentro" hosts the refuge "Tre Scarperi" 1626m, easily reched in 1 hour from the car park few km over Sesto.
"Val Fiscalina" hosts the private refuge "Fondovalle" 1548m. Not far from the car park, it is also the starting point for the refuges "Comici", "Pian di Cengia" and "Locatelli".
Both car parks can also be reached by a good bus services, for who want to do hikes from different parts of the group.
The village of Sesto il placed along the "Valle di Sesto" which belongs to the bigger "Val Pusteria" of Dobbiaco.
From the motorway that connect Austria to Italy across the "Passo del Brennero", take the gate "Brunico/Brunek", follow the indication to "Val Pusteria/Dobbiaco", and than shortly to "S.Candido - Sesto".
For who comes from Italy, two roads from the villages of "Cortina" and "Auronzo di Cadore", lead to the valle di Sesto. Very panoramic ways but not fast.
The normal routeSorry for my inaccurate English. But the traslation from Italian into English of this intricate route is not easy.
Left the parking lot of Val Fiscalina and embarked on the road that leads to the refuge Fondovalle, just past the horse stables on the right, take a trace of path that goes right into the woods, very narrow in the begin with low pines, heading for the "Lavina Bianca" (attention to deviations, always follow the left going, some small cairns remains from the Austrian warpath).
Once having reached the end of the vegetation, continue penetrating in the center of the gravelled slope "Lavina Bianca" and carry on up the spur that descends from Tre Scarperi summit (in the way you will find the remains of the Austrian barracks). To the right are the tracks that lead to the "macchie dei Scarperi" and the "forcella dei Sassi". This notch can be also reached from the refuge "tre Scarperi" on the opposite side of the mountain.
Once passed a first channel you get to a second steep channel on the right (hard ground and landslide on the surface) to a kind of notch at its term. During that step keep to the left of the channel, leaning against the wall.
From the saddle, go up for few hundred meters along the steep cliffs, until you reach the edge of the large terrace sloping. You can walk across the terrace or at the bottom (a lot of attention to the jump below!); or walking in unwieldy screes that run through it.
Attack of the route:
Climb into short channels with little difficulty (grade I and II), stretches of trail, easy ledges and stretches of walls for at least 7/8 pitches (although it is not alwaysnecessary with the rope).
Some stone piles indicate the way but you never have to exceed the edge of the left.
After the route goes up in an area of black couloirs, above which it reaches the ledge that supports the towers of the summit. Among these, the higher point is recognizable for a small black roof on his the right side.
You enter into a rocky channel to the right of that tower and go up (anchors of progression and for rappels, passages of III+) eventually coming under the aforementioned roof.
From here you can up the chimney, or reach the notch where the channel ends and continue for ridge, on the left. Reached the crest of carving you soon touch the top of Punta dei Tre Scarperi.
Difficult: 1700m drop PD+ II/III III+ max
RefugesRifugio Fondovalle/Talschlusshütte 1548m:
Placed in the Val Fiscalina
From Piano Fiscalino 1454m in 1 hour
Open from mid of may to end of october and from Christmas to Easter
Keeped by fam. Villgrater
Tel. +39 0474710606 Fax: +39 0474710921
Rifugio Tre Scarperi/Dreischusterhütte 1626m:
Placed in the Val Campo di Dentro
From the carpark in Val Campo di Dentro 1509 in 1 hour
Section of Alpenverein Südtirol - Sezione “Drei Zinnen“
Open from 1 june to 30 september
56 places Keeped by fam. Innerkofler
Tel. +39 0474966610 +39 0474976269 +39 3407698342
LinksVal Pusteria website link
Sud Tyrol/Val Fiscalina link
Wheather Val Pusteria link
Dolomiti Meteo link