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Punta Gnifetti Normal Route
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Punta Gnifetti Normal Route

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Punta Gnifetti Normal Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Novara, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.92691°N / 7.87746°E

Object Title: Punta Gnifetti Normal Route

Route Type: Mountaineering, Ice Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Alpine F+

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Cyrill, Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Feb 8, 2002 / Nov 16, 2017

Object ID: 156188

Hits: 8102 

Page Score: 87.69%  - 25 Votes 

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Overview




Punta Gnifetti Normal Route







Punta Gnifetti m 4554 - Signalkuppe in German - is a mountain belonging to Monte Rosa Group, Pennine Alps.
Located on the Italian-Swiss border, Punta Gnifetti is an important orographic hub and the fourth summit of Monte Rosa in order of height, after Punta Dufour m 4634, Punta Nordend m 4609 and Punta Zumstein m. 4563.


Monte Rosa main summits annotated pano from Corno NeroMonte Rosa summits annotated pano from Corno Nero


The Italian sides have two impressive and very high walls, the first one is the impressive East wall overlooking Macugnaga, the second one is the Valsesia wall facing Alagna Valsesia, with superb routes on both walls, amongst the most difficult and longest mixed itineraries in the Alps. They contrast with the Swiss side, showing gentle-angled slopes and completely covered with snow and ice. The Italian Normal route takes place in the last part along the Swiss side.
Punta Gnifetti is surely one of the most known and attended destination in Monte Rosa group, being attainable by this easy Normal Route starting on the Italian side and crossing the Lys Col, moreover facilitated by the presence of the cable-cars and two important points of support, the Ref. Gnifetti and the Ref. Mantova. Punta Gnifetti is considered as one of the easiest 4000s of the Alps, when climbed following the Normal Route described in the previous chapters. Check here the complete list of the 82 alpine Fourthousanders and the 46 minor summits: Club4000. Normal Route that however should not be underestimated, above all in reason of the high altitude and the presence of numerous crevasses on the glacier. On the summit, since 1893, it's situated the Rifugio Regina Margherita, the highest alpine hut and astronomical observatory in Europe.


Dufourspitze, Zumstein, Signalkuppe, etc
The four main summits of M. Rosa: Nordend, Dufour, Zumstein, Gnifetti

Signalkuppe (Punta Gnifetti) 4559 m
Punta Gnifetti - Photo Antonio Giani







History

The mountain was named Punta Gnifetti in honor of the parish priest of Alagna Giovanni Gnifetti, who realized the first ascent on August 9th, 1842 with Cristoforo Ferraris, Cristoforo Grober, Giacomo and Giovanni Giordani, Giuseppe Farinetti and two porters. Giovanni Gnifetti had already attempted to climb on July 26-27, 1834, June 28-29, 1836, and August 12, 1839.
The German name "Signalkuppe" (Cima del Segnale in Italian) comes from the presence of a characteristic rocky pinnacle on the summit - the signal for the very - that was demolished during the construction of the Capanna Regina Margherita.

Capanna Regina Margherita
The construction of the Margherita hut - Photo andrea

margherita hut
The highest alpine hut of Europe nowaday

Getting there

From Italy

Two different approachs roads are possible depending if coming from the Valle di Gressoney (Aosta) or from the Val Sesia (Piemonte).

Access via the Valle di Gressoney (Aosta Valley) - From the A5 Torino – Aosta Highway, exit Pont St. Martin and take the Valle di Gressoney, getting to Gressoney St. Jean, Gressoney La Trinité and Staffal.
From Staffal take the Cable car to Alpe Gabiet – Passo dei Salati - Indren

Access via the Val Sesia (Piemonte) - From the A26 Highway exit to Romagnano Sesia and take the road to Varallo Sesia. Here continue following all the Val Sesia road to Alagna Valsesia.
From Alagna Valsesia take the skilifts in three sections: Telecabina Alagna-Pianalunga - Funifor Pianalunga-Passo dei Salati – Funifor Passo dei Salati-Indren. Info here: Alagna Valsesia skilifts

 
Alagna Valsesia skilifts
Alagna Valsesia and Gressoney skilifts map


Alternatively by walk (no cable car) 7 h from Alagna

Get to Punta Indren on the marked hiking path n. 5 from Alagna via Dosso (1357m). You go to the Alpe Oltu (1847m, cable car station, 1,5 h) and furth up the Valle d'Olen. You go along the Sasso del Diavolo and reach almost Colle d'Olen, where you turn right to the Vigevano-hut (3 h). You go further along Passo Salati (2936m) to the ridge-crest and traverse Stolemberg. On the side of the Indrenglacier, you reach the station (1 1/4 h, totally 6 h).

From Switzerland

You reach Alagna by car on the road E62 from Brig via Simplonpass. Turn off at Ornavasso (near Lago Maggiore) and drive to Omegna. Here turn right and drive along the western side of Lago Orta to Borgosésia. In Borgosésia you take the road to the N an reach Alagna via Varallo and Scopello.
You can reach Aosta through the Great St.Bernard Tunnel or the Great St.Bernard Col, then from Aosta reach Pont St. Martin and here take the road running in Val Gressoney to Staffal.

1. To Punta Gnifetti
From the Rif. Città di Mantova or Rif. Gnifetti

2. To the Rif. Città di Mantova 3498 m or Rif. Gnifetti 3611 m
Get to the Rif. Gnifetti from Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from Alagna or Gressoney) in 1,5 h via the Rif. Città di Mantova, 1 h to Rif. Città di Mantova. In the lower part, it is a marked path (n. 5). The traverse of the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, traverse the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut is situated (yellow-red signs). You climb up the rock steps (fixed ropes). To reach the Gnifetti Hut from the Mantova Hut you have to cross the glacier going up over the E-side of the glacier to the N and at the end on the rocks to the Gnifetti hut. This will take up to 30 minutes longer.

Route Description

Punta Gnifetti Normal Route
Difficulty: F+ (Alpine scale)
Difference in level: 950 m from Capanna Gnifetti - 1085 m from Rifugio Mantova

A must for those looking for a simple itinerary on a great mountain. The climb is easy, but involves a full glacier's equipment. Lys Glacier has several crevasses - often hidden in early summer - so it is necessary to cross it by proceeding enroped.


Punta Gnifetti descent route topoPunta Gnifetti Normal Route - Photo AlbertoRampini



Route description - The Normal route to the summit of Punta Gnifetti/Signalkuppe starts from either Refuge Gnifetti m. 3611 or Mantova m. 3470. From the shelters – Rifugio Mantova or Capanna Gnifetti – gain the starting point of the Lys Glacier, which begins nearby Capanna Gnifetti.

view from summit of the...
Punta Gnifetti seen from Punta Parrot
Garstelet Glacier in early morning
Garstelet Glacier in early morning
A party on the descent route
A party on the Lys Glacier


Enter the glacier and follow it at first diagonally to the left (toward North-East) along a steep ramp, then toward North rising on moderate ice-slopes, never too away from the steep slopes of Vincent. In some sections the route presents a few passages between wide crevasses. Continue always along the track, usually present in summer, heading to the Lys Col.

On the glacier along Punta Gnifetti Normal routeParties on Lys Glacier, E Lyskamm on background


After passing a series of irregular slopes, the itinerary gets the snowy basin below the Balmenhorn at about 4000 m. with the statue of Christ under which it's located the little bivouac. Finally, the route reaches the Colle del Lys just near Eastern Lyskamm to the left. Descending briefly, the route takes a long and mainly flat trajectory just below a few small seracs at the base of Punta Parrot, then leads below the Colle Gnifetti and the Capanna Margherita. Increasing the incline the track rises up to the slope with some bends. Two differeny ways to get the summit: you can climb a track that separates from the main one to the right, heading directly and steeply to the summit or more easily you can get the Colle Gnifetti with the main track and then turn to right and follow the ridge to the summit.

Eastern Lyskamm from Punta Gnifetti Normal route
Eastern Lyskamm from the Normal route

Margherita Hut on Punta Gnifetti (Signalkuppe)
Summit of Punta Gnifetti seen from Punta Zumstein - Photo hiltrud.liu



Time request: five hours from ref. Gnifetti, five hours and half from ref. Mantova.

Descent: reversing the same itinerary

Essential Gear

Skies during winter and spring, full glacier gear (ice-axe, crampons, rope, slings, carabiners) during the summer.

Red Tape

No fees no permits required

Punta Gnifetti map
 

Huts

- Rifugio Città di Mantova m. 3470

Situation: Garstelet Glacier
Open: from June to September
Size: 85 persons + 15 in the winter-shelter
Guardian: Guide di Gressoney
Hut's phone : 0039 0163 78150 / 347 0802910
Email: info@rifugiomantova.it

Rifugio Mantova (3.498 mtrs)
Rifugio Mantova 3498 m

Capanna Gnifetti
Capanna Gnifetti 3611 m - Photo giampiero assandri



- Capanna Gnifetti m. 3611

Situation: rockspur between the Lysglacier and the Garsteletglacier
Open: spring from middle March to middle May - summer from middle June to middle September
Size: 176 persons + 4 in the winter-shelter
Hut's phone : 0163 78150 / 347 0802910
Email: info@rifugimonterosa.it

When to climb

Best months are June, July, August and September.
Ski-mountaineering: from the end of February to the end of May

Meteo

Meteo Regione Valle d'Aosta

Meteo Regione Piemonte

Guidebooks and maps

"Il grande libro dei 4000" Marco Romelli, Valentino Cividini - Idea Montagna Editore, 2015

“Tutti i 4000” – L’aria sottile dell’alta quota” – CLUB 4000 CAI TORINO – Vivalda Editori

“The 4000 of the Alps” Richard Goedeke (CAAI) – All the normal routes to the 4000m. summits of the Alps – Libris Edition

“Monte Rosa” Gino Buscaini - Guida dei Monti d'Italia C.A.I.-T.C.I.

Images

stormy sea"A room with a view" - from...Standing on Middle Breithorn...Matterhorn, Italian sidethe silhouettes of Matterhorn...Signalkuppe (Punta Gnifetti) 4559 mThree 4000m peaks
Punta Gnifetti seen from Corno NeroMonte Rosa seen from...A party on the descent routeLa punta Gnifetti (Signalkuppe 4559 m)Garstelet Glacier in early morningSunset on Lysjoch, Dufour,...Punta Gnifetti and Punta Parrot
[ View Gallery - 45 More Images ]