Overview
Punta A Biciartula - Alexandra first "tafone"
Punta A Biciartula South East Spur
Punta A Biciartula
Punta A Biciartula is rising below the impressive wall of Punta Rossa, one of most diffucult summit of Bavella Group, a fine and reddish tower overlooking the left-hand side of the road D268 (Solenzara – Col de Bavella), when following it from the pass towards East (Solenzara side). It appears like a huge orange spur of pure “Bavella”'s granite facing South-East; on this cliff extraordinarily carved two superb “moderne” routes had been realized by two teams from Marsiglia in 2000 and 2001. The rock is absolutely solid and offers different climbing ways, from the slabs in sheer adherence to the peculiar and vertical “tafoni”.
Getting There
ROAD ACCESS TO BAVELLA PASS
From Bastia (Corsica eastern coast) follow the RN 198 towards Solenzara; less then 1 km. before Solenzara turn to right and follow the road D268 to Bavella Pass (km. 130 from Bastia).
From Aiaccio (Corsica western coast) follow the RN 196 to Petreto, then the road N852 towards Aullene, reaching Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio). From here follow the D268 to Col de Bavella.
FROM BAVELLA PASS TO THE TOWER
The buttress is situated along the East side of the road D268, between Renaju Bridge and Polischellu Bridge. Follow D268 down along East side towards Solenzara for about 10 km., reaching the Renaju Bridge. Park the car 200 m. after Renaju bridge in a pull-out on the left-hand side of the road, near a bend of the ancient road.
WALKING APPROACH
From the pull-out a steep trail starts – several cairns – leading to the base of Punta A Biciartula (45 minutes from the parking).
Punta A Biciartula routes overview
Punta A Biciartula, Alexandra: "Tafoni" on the second pitch
Routes overview from left to right-hand side:
KALLISTE
ED inf., 6b/6b+ obbl., 210 m., equipped
Fine route, the most difficult of the buttress
“LA CELEBRATION DU LEZARD”
TD sup., 6b obbl. 220 mt. The name is due to a gigantic monstruous lizard overlooking the route’s upper section. Equipped. Bring 12 expresses and some ribbons.
“ALEXANDRA” TD, 6a+, 6a obbl. 220 mt. Equipped route. Bring 10 quickdraws, some little friends and some ribbons.
ALEXANDRA REPORT (French Scale)
Summit altitude: about 970 mt.
TD, 6a+, 6a obbl.
Length: 220 mt.
Exposure: SE
First ascent: P. Clarac - J.L. Fenouil – R. Lamontellerie and E. Neville 2000
Approach starting: Road D268 Col de Bavella between Renaju Bridge and Polischellu Bridge
Huts: Gite d’Etape “du Col de Bavella”, Gite d’Etape “Les Aiguilles de Bavella”
A jewel showing pure “Bavella” orange granite. The first five pitches are sustained on 6a, 6a+. Starting point is near a characteristic tree below a steep slab sormounted by some enormous orange ”tafoni”.
1 – After some technical moves along the slab,
a final climbing on
the superb “tafoni” leads to a belay below another huge orange “tafone”.6a+
2- Frome the belay head diagonally towards left to
climb the left edge of the “tafone”, then a corner and finally some slabs slantways to right. 6a
3 – Diagonally towards left with technical moves, still diagonally towards a corner. Climb another slab to a stance below another great “tafone”. 6a+
4 – Climb straightly the “tafone” overhanging the stance, then “a tafoni and slabs’ system” with very pleasant climb. Belay below the unpteenth “tafaone” 6a.
5 - A block move to climb the tafone on its left-hand side, then slantways toward right climb some little walls leading to a stance near a tree. 6a+.
6 – Some blocks, then traverse easily towards left reaching some superb “tafoni”. Ribbons.
7 - A peculiar move across the hole in the “tafone”, then some others easy “tafoni” and an ending slab to the summit. 4b.
Descent: 25 mt. abseil along small NW face – in opposite side from ascent route. Reach a little saddle. Scramble down the rocky vegetated East gully, to the second abseil equipped belay. 30 mt. abseil. Third 15 mt. abseil along some block leads to the bottom of the gully situated on the left-hand side – facing out – of the cliff.
Red Tape
Punta A Biciartula, South East Spur - An incredible mineral sculpture of Corsica on the top
Granite natural sculptures on Punta A Biciartula summit
Bavella is really a fantastic world, a preserved milieu situated inside a Regional Park. Free camping and bivouac are not allowed. Fires are strictly forbidden. Maximum care is required to keep for the future this extraordinary environment.
Nature and climate
Nature is wild and peculiar; in Corsica we can find more than 5% of authoctonous kinds of flower and plants, in addition to authoctonous fauna. On the contrary, several kinds of animal current inside Mediterranean countries are away from Corsica, like squirrels and vipers.Climate is the typical one of the mediterranean middle-mountain areas situated at these latitudes: often very hot in summer and with cold and snowy winters; early and middle Spring and early Fall are the better seasons to climb. Due to Bavella closeness to the sea, winds are often stronger how much they are at the same height in the Alps. Rainfall sometimes are important and dangerous when joined with strong winds. On the contrary, sometimes we can find some long periods of drought.
When to climb
Due to its limited height and its SE exposition, the cliff may be very hot in summer. Best seasons to climb Punta A Biciartula are Spring and Fall.Where to stay
COL DE BAVELLA- Auberge du Col de Bavella – Hotel and Gite d’Etape AUBERGE DU COL DE BAVELLA
- Les Aiguilles de Bavella – Gite d’Etape
GITE D'ETAPE LES AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA
ZONZA
- Hotel L’Aiglon, Hotel de la Terrasse
- Municipal Camping of Zonza, Camping La Riviere (Zonza)
Meteo
METEO CORSEGuidebooks and maps
“Bavedda – Aiguilles entre ciel et torrents: Escalade, Rando, Canyon” by Jean Louis Fenouil and Jean Paul Quilici - FFME
“Rocca é Sole” Massif de Bavedda by Jean Paul Quilici and Francis Thibaudeau
“Corse paradis de l’escalade” by Martial Lacroix
Map: IGN 4253 ET “Aiguilles de Bavella – Solenzara”
Images
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