With Patrick from SP, our first climb together. I led the three 5.8 pitches including the 5.8-9 variation as described here. I was not impressed with this new route really. Did not find the climbing sustained and of course the rock was quite suspect. Not sure I consider this a worthy route to have developed. The first 5.8 pitch involves a traverse on white rock, little bit of a scary move to reach the bolt. The 2nd 5.8 pitch utilizes chicken heads to reach another bolt. Obviously these are not tried and tested as much as the ones at Lotta Balls, but the climbing is pretty easy. That last pitch variation looked a lot more attractive than the 5.6 finish. But in the end, was not as sustained as it looked. Mostly just an easy, kind of dirty 5.8 crack. Hard to protect the lower section crack with any viable piece, so you might call this pitch a tad run out I suppose.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe