Aiguille Purtscheller is the neighbour of Aiguille du Tour on the west side of the Trient plateau. The Purtscheller collar (3383 m) separates the needle from the two summits of Aiguille du Tour in the north.
The Purtscheller needle is made of very good granite and provides a short but nice climb, specially on the south ridge. Not far away from the busy Aiguille du Tour, the Purtscheller needle is a haven of peace.
The french access is over Albert Premier hut and Tour collar. On the swiss side, you must cross the Trient plateau, coming from Orny and Trient hut.
1) Swiss access over Orny and Trient huts :
You will need to get to Martigny than follow the road first to Sambrancher than to Orsieres than to Champex lac, if you are coming from Italy or the Grand St. Bernard area you will only have to head for Orsieres than Champex Lac. Once in Champex head for the Chairlift, once at the top of the chairlift follow the trail that will first pass the Cabane d'Orny and than continue on the Glacier to the Cabane de Trient.
2) French access over Albert Premier hut :
To get there you must get to Le Tour at the top end of the Chamonix Valley. From Le Tour you have two options : either take the lift up to 2200m or start from the Village. Both possibilities are on well marked trails.
No red tape
1) Normal route = NE face
2) S ridge
3) S ridge integral
4) Abseiling :
- on the NE face - Leads to the start of the normal route
- on the S face to Tour collar
When To Climb
From May to October
Albert Premier hut
In Chamonix you may get the latest coditions from the 'Maison de la Montagne'.
Otherwise call the hut guardians.
Maps and Books
Map : Carte: IGN 3630 OT
Topo : Sommets du Mt-Blanc, Laroche/Lelong, Glénat. Vertical n° 26 08/2002
- First ascent : Ludwig Purtscheller, 17 June 1890
- S ridge : R. Aubert, René Dittert, Francis Marulaz, 16 mai 1943.
Ludwig Purtscheller (born October 6, 1849 in Innsbruck; † March 3rd 1900 in Bern, Switzerland) was an Austrian mountaineer and teacher.
In the late 19th century he was known as the best mountaineer in the alps, where he had climbed over 1700 mountains. He is best know for his first ascent of Kilimanjaro in 1889 together with the German mountaineer Hans Meyer.
He died when trying to climb the mountain Dru in the French Alps near Mont Blanc.