Putucusi : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

When heading for Machu Picchu, climbers often want a bird eye's view of the ruins, and they'll usually head up to the summit of the infamous Huayna Picchu, the mountain which makes up the backdrop for Machu Picchu. But there's another mountain, just a little further away from the ruins, a lot less frequented, which also gives the climber similiar views. Putucusi is directly across the Urubamba River from the ruins of Machu Picchu, and the trailhead is easily accessible from the town of Aquas Caliente. The summit has wide open views of Machu Picchu as well as the surroundng valleys and mountain peaks. I found this place to be almost surreal, too good to be true, up in the scattered clouds and alone on top of a mountain viewing the ruins. I found it best to get there early (maybe 6:00 a.m.) and then you'll see the ruins before the crowds enter Machu Picchu.

The climb to the summit of Putucusi is no easy task. From what I was told, the trail is a somewhat recently discovered Incan Trail which has been revamped. In many spots the trail goes straight up rock cliffs, and in these areas, which are numerous, they've built wooden ladders made from the jungle like forest timbers. The day I climbed it, there were intermitent rain showers, which made the rungs on the ladders extremely slippery. The locals said not to try it when it was wet out, but it's certainly doable. Other portions of the trail consist of steps that were carved into the rock walls, and other spots consist of large boulders which are placed almost perfectly. I found this trail to be much like the trail to Huayna Picchu, but definitely more difficult. The ladder climbs are located in the first third of the trail, and after that it's mostly just very steep climbing. I would estimate that the ladders were as much as 100' to 200' high. Obviously a slip here could be your last.

Getting There

Cuzco is the starting point for all routes leading into Aquas Caliente, and then on to the summit. There are two options, one part way by bus & part way by train, and the other by train only.

The simplest method is to catch the train (Peru Rail) directly out of Cuzco. You should plan about (4) hours total for the train ride. If you chose the train out of Cuzco, be sure to purchase your ticket in advance. I was there in the off season, and the actual days that I wanted to travel were sold out. There are several classes of service available. The cheapest, which is what I took, is known as the Backpacker train. It costs $96 US for a roundtrip ticket. My only complaint regarding the Backpacker train was that there was no leg room available. My knees actually interlocked with the passenger across from me, as you sit facing one another. The mid priced train, known as the Vistadome appeared to be much nicer, and looked to have a bit more room. The fare for the Vistadome train is $142 US for a roundtrip ticket. The most expensive train, which I happened to see as it passed by, looks to be pretty luxurious. I was told that it is $500 US roundtrip, but that is second hand information only.

The other route that I'm familiar with is to take a bus from the bus station Terminal Terreste (which is in downtown Cuzco) directly to the town of Ollantaytambo. Once there, head for the train station and take the local train to Aquas Caliente. On my return route, I actually went this route rather than take the Backpacker train back to Cuzco. Oddly enough, even though the Backpacker and Vistadome trains were sold out, there were only (10) people using this train.

The train will drop you off at the train station in Aquas Caliente. If you were to immediately climb Putucusi, all you would have to do is walk along the railroad tracks (continuing in the same direction) until you reach the edge of town. Right at the very last building (which is under construction at the time of this writing), look to your right and you'll see the trailhead, partially hidden under dense brush, but visible if you're actually looking in the right spot. I missed it because I was told that it was a (10) minute walk from town and that there was a sign marking the trailhead, both of which were not the case. So, if you come across any tunnels or a switching station, you've gone too far.

Once you're on the trail, it's impossible to get lost. The trail basically goes straight up the side of a steep mountain. As I recall, I made it to the top in about an hour, maybe a little more.

Red Tape

No red tape or permits required. Climb whenever you want.

Camping - Hostals - Hotels

I saw campsites below town along the Urubamba River but I didn't camp here. I did talk with one backpacker that was simply camping along the bus road between Aquas Caliente and Machu Picchu.

I preferred the hostals, which are literally everywhere in Aquas Caliente. I paid about $7 US for a private room with a shower (& hot water most of the time). I was actually met at the bus station by several hostal owners trying to convince me to stay at their place (same thing happened at the bus station in Cuzco). Prices were definitely negotiable, so I'd take my time and check a few out before commiting to any particular hostal.

There are also plenty of hotels around town as well. And then there's the lodge at Machu Picchu for those with the money. The cheapest room starts at $795 US per night, and tops out for a suite at $1,320 US per night. I've added a link for those that care to check it out.

Machu Picchu Lodge

Weather Link

Current Weather Forecast

Links

Lots of good information on this link to get yourself familiar with the train service.

Peru Rail

Information from Wikipedia on Putucusi.

Putucusi

More good information from Wikipedia on Machu Picchu on this link.

Machu Picchu

Additions and Corrections

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rgg

Many broken ladders in 2011

Hasn't voted

When I visited, in June 2011, I learned that the rainy season had seriously damaged the ladders, and some were gone completely.

Alongside the longest ladder section, a thick steel cable was hanging down - perhaps as aid for workers on the trail?

For most hikers, that would be the end, but I scrambled up anyway, using the remains of the ladders and the steel cable. Above that section, there were no more serious problems to the top.

Posted Mar 11, 2012 1:52 pm

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