If you have ever been to Josha Tree National Park via the western enterance, you could not have missed this little jewel of a rock formation. Quail Springs, also affectionately known as “Trash Can Rock,” is the first major rock formation you come to driving down Park Boulevard.

I can imagine how the first climbers must have felt coming to this rock. They must have felt like kids in a candy store. When you first pull into the parking area you see a vertical face with five major crack systems. This face is the scene of many hopes being dashed and realized.

East Face of Quail Springs, also known as "Trashcan Rock"

Kris Solem soloing Butterfly Crack, 11c.

The five crack systems on the east face offer from a fun 5.8 hand crack to a powerful fingery 11c to start and only a 5.9/10a finish. And the two 10c cracks are the ones that receive most of the attempts.

The East Face climbs:

A- Wallaby Crack, 5.8
B- Hermanutic crack, 10c
C- Butterfly Crack, 11c
D- Left Sawdust Crack, 10c
E- Right Sawdust Crack, 5.8

The West Face of Quail Springs

The west face of Quail Springs, however, is a completely different story. Due to its low angle and well featured nature, it embodies the easiest of what Joshua Tree has to offer. The hardest crack on the west face is rated at 5.7, and the hardest face is rated at 10c. This route is normally top roped, but the nearby 5.7 face climb, Tip Toe, receives many lead ascents every day.

On any weekend you will find rock climbing classes being held on the west face. And you will see many people using the concrete benches for picnicking. In short, Quail Springs provides ample parking and restrooms for hikers, climbers and sight-seers alike.

Featured Climb, Tip Toe, 5.7

This is a climb everybody should do. An aspiring face climber will truly enjoy leading Tip Toe. You are climbing a low angle slab using knobs on a rock rib. The face is short and the protection adequate consisting of three bolts. There is a great horizontal crack on the top to set up an anchor.
Gear: A 50 meteror longer rope is long enough for anything here, 3 quick draws, and a standard rack up to 2 inches for setting up your anchor.

The West Face Climbs:

A- Karpkwitz, 5.4
B- B-3, 5.3
C- Profundity, 10a, or 10c variation
D- B-2, 5.3
E- Tip Toe, 5.7
F- B1, 5.1
G- Walkway, 5.3
H- Baby-Point-Five, 5.8

Camping

There are nine campgrounds in Joshua Tree National Park. At the entrance to the park you are always asked if you would care to have a map and a brochure. The brochure will have plenty of information on the campgrounds and the map will guide you to many of the pleasant hikes throughout the park. You may even get the latest information as to availability of campsites. During the peak season (mid winter through spring) finding a campsite may become a major task. It is highly recommended to use the following link to get more information in advance.

Joshua Tree Camping

Noise considerations,

When you are camping with friends and sitting around the fire, it is easy to forget that there are other people trying to sleep in the nearby campsites. It is important to put yourself in their shoes. Keep the noise and music to a minimum and certainly not too much past 10 p.m. Your

Environmental Considerations

Please tread lightly. The Access Fund has gone to great lengths posting trail marker for approaches to many of the more popular crags. Do you best to stay on these trails, and where you are forced to use a different path, choose the ones that rain can mend in time. Drainages make for good trails where there are no established trails.
Avoid stepping on native and fragile plants, and do not feed the coyotes. Coyotes are very much used to people and often hang around picnic areas and camp grounds in hopes of getting a hand out. It’s better to let them live their natural life.

Red Tape

There are no permits required to climb or hike in Joshua Tree National Park. However, there are fee requirements for entering and camping within the park boundaries.

7-Day pass for each passenger car---$15
7-Day pass on foot, bicycle or motor cycle ---$5
Joshua Tree Annual Pass/non transferable---$30
Interagency Annual Pass---$80
Campsite fees are $15/night for Black Rock, Cottonwood and Indian Cove campgrounds.
The fees for the remaining campgrounds are $10/ night.

How To Get There

Drive about 5.8 miles on Park Boulevard from the west entrance to Joshua Tree National Park. You will see a sign indicating "Quail Springs." This is your parking. There is ample parking, bathrooms and picnic benches. Enjoy.

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