Southern Nevada
Overview/Approach
The Ragged Edges area in Willow Springs at Red Rock NCA is a non-committal climbing area that offers some decent trad climbing options. By non-committal, I mean mostly single pitch routes with quick access. Most of the Ragged Edges area faces north/northeast, but sits realtively low in an open valley, so is still a climbable area in winter. The most popular routes at Ragged Edges are of course its namesake, Ragged Edges, 5.8, and Chicken Eruptus, 5.10b. Handren devotes a full page photo to Chicken Eruptus in his guide. Both routes are on a heavily varnished section of the wall that stretches 200’ tall. Both of these routes garner three stars in Handren’s guide and they are both worthy of climbing if you get to this area. However the best route in this neighborhood, in my opinion, is the Graduate (5.10b) which is on what Handren labels the Graduate Cliff located directly above Ragged Edges Wall. The Graduate is a stout overhanging hand crack with an exposed arête move. Ragged Edges is a continuous hand crack with rests. Chicken Eruptus’ crux move mostly involves bolted face on black varnish. Kemosabe, 5.10a, is another decent route to add to the mix.
You can park at the first parking trailhead on Rocky Gap Road which is a right turn off from the Loop Road after you pass White Rock Springs and descend a hill. Or continue down the road a bit and park at a picnic area which is more directly across from the wall. There are several braided climbers trails. In any regard, look for a 200’ tall wall that is heavily varnished on the south side of the road. There is a vertical arch to the left, from bottom to top (Kemosabe) that is also a solid landmark. It takes maybe 10 minutes to reach the base of the crag. Any of the routes can be quickly walked off to the right.
Route Description(s)
Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the Wall- Crooked Crack- 5.6/
- Diplomatic Immunity- 5.5/
- Revoked- 5.5/
- Lethal Weapon- 5.8+/
- Midnight- 5.7+/
- Go Ahead and Jump- 5.6*/
- Ok Ok Ok- 5.6*/
- Dense Dunce- 5.8/
- Kemosabe- 100’-5.10a/* This is a below average route, but a good one to use in combination with the Graduate which is the best route at Willow Springs (wall above Ragged Edges wall). Kemosabe is definitely more of a 5.9 climb than 5.10a. A few fun moves up a seam that ramps right. Then straight up some good edges on slab. Tree above is slung for a rap versus walk off if you would rather. Dow
- Tonto- 5.5**/
- The Lone Ranger- 5.9/
- Theme Book- 5.9/
- Vision Quest- 5.12d/
- Bodiddly- 5.10d*/
- Plan F- 5.11a**/
- Ragged Edges- 200’-5.8/*** I consider this short two pitch varnished crack the quintessential starter lead for the grade at Red Rocks. Joe Herbst and Jeff Lansing established this obvious line during the awakening decade at Red Rocks, the 70’s. Ragged Edges is a fantastic crack running the full height of the wall at Willow Springs. It is just to the left of another classic in this area, Chicken Eruptus. Dow
- Chicken Eruptus- 200’-5.10b/*** Fun pitch on great rock. The best pitch of this group however is The Graduate (same grade) on the wall above, so make this a two pitcher by hitting that route as well. Chicken is a one move wonder at the grade, right at the first bolt you come to at about half way. Step down and right before reaching for the jug by the old pin. Good pro via mostly horizontal placements. Dow
- Akido Gun Boy- 5.11d*/
- Sheep Trail- 5.10a*/
- Dense Pack- 5.10c*/
- Why Left- 5.11b/
- Why Right- 5.11b/
- Sheep Dip- 5.11a/
- Walk to School- 5.7/
- The Graduate- 100’-5.10b/*** One of the better single crack pitches for the grade at RR and definitely the best climb at Willow Springs. I would prefer 3- C4#3's next time...where the crack overhangs the hand crack gets large=fist. This overhang was just a short straight in section for me, but many would need to layback it. A C4 #2 or #3 protects the exposed traverse left below the roof. Huge jugs await, exposed, but easy last moves. Dow
- Acid Jacks- 5.11c/
- Circle of Jerks- 5.11d/
Left Side
Main Wall
Graduate Cliff
Images
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