Approach as per the Improbable Traverse
Climb to the apex of the scree field.
Begin climbing slabs towards a large, vertical, black streak. Before reaching the top of the slabs or the black streak, look for a steep ramp leading up and to the right.
p1) Climb the ramp. Class 4 climbing leads to a 2-tree belay on a down sloping ledge.
p2) traverse left past a bush and make a short overhanging move to easier climbing. (you might be able to easily traverse around to the climber's right of the belay). Belay at a tree on a large square ledge.
p3) continue up and right on the ramp (past a 5.4 offwidth move). You'll come to a large, flat ledge system (3-4' wide, and very flat). Begin traversing to the right on the ledges. You'll reach a 15' gap in the ledge system. Climb up and over the gap past a piton. This is exposed. A mid-5th move across and up , and then do a short 5.7-5.8 down climb using a finger crack. Belay from the large tree.
p4) We climbed straight up from the climber's right of the tree. A couple of pitons mark the way (fred calls this 5.5 but it seemed harder). We continued straight up two more steps(certainly off route at this point) The first step was unprotectable and had some mid-5th class climbing. The second step was a nice chimney with a smooth right wall. There was a belayer slayer at the top of the chimney, so we tarzaned up the 1" diameter roots of a tree out to the left. (12' of vertical, 5.6 shwacking). We tied a runner to the dried out tree roots for pro. We were back on route by the end of the pitch.
p5) Take the 4th class ramp that climbs up and left. This has some loose rock and kitty litter and you can't place pro wherever you want, but the position on the face is outstanding so it makes it worthwhile.
Continue up and left on the nice, wide ledge for about two more rope lengths. This is not very exposed at this point, and most parties would unrope.
p6) when you reach a point where you'd have to drop a few feet and then climb a vertical wall with no pro, stop traversing up left, and look to climb up and right. Class 4 and class 5 climbing (past another piton) will take you to the summit.
rack we used:
bd stoppers 4-8
#4 and #7 hex
pink and red tricam
Cams to 3". The 3" cam and the yellow/orange/red metolious cams seemed the most useful.
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