Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition
This organization which your can join of course electronically I think has a couple of representatives I know:
Red River Gorge.org
OverviewHas become a premier rock climbing crag known world wide. In places it has heavily pocketed steep sandstone faces as well as spitter cracks, ragged cracks and the dreaded offwidth. Vegetation is pretty intense including Magnolia macropylla and big hemlocks. Developers include Tom Souders, Martin Hackworth and Katie Brown climbed here too. Trad crags include the Fortress Wall off of on the west side of KY77 with climbs such as HB, American Crack, Party Time and the not to be missed Bed Time for Bonzo. Upriver is Tower Rock with Arachnid and Africa. Roadside Attraction is quite popular as is What's left of the Beanling. Bring small tricams for horizontals
Viewing Assignment: Red River Gorge
Getting ThereFrom Cincinnati, go south on I 75 to Lexington. take the exit for I-64 East (exit 111). Take I-64 until about 2 miles past the 2nd Winchester exit, and take the exit onto the Mountain Parkway. Once you are on the Mountain Parkway, it is about 33 miles to the Slade exit. About 12 miles BEFORE the Slade exit is Stanton. If you need fast food, Stanton is the last place you will be able to find it before you reach the Gorge. When you get to the Slade exit, take it. Turn right at the stop sign, and then right again immediately, and you will be in the Slade Rest Area. This is the best place to collect yourself, meet up with any friends that might be driving separate, and prepare yourself for your adventures. Turn onto the Mountain Parkway and head east from Lexington towards Winchester and Mount Stirling, Get off at Slade and head for Nada. Nada (outdoor plumbing and satelite TV) is the gateway to the tunnel riven through the rock minus its concrete sleve. From this point drive north to the Red River. These directions are a work in progress. Do find Miquel's Diner in the Gorge Map
Tom Souders RRG Developer
Red TapeJust don't borrow any plants, observe the trails.
In the small 2200 acre park at Natural Bridge, there is no climbing but this is a tiny part of the Gorge.
When To ClimbAny time is possible. In the summer make sure you're in the shade. Be sure to bring enough water. Water is available in the brooks and there used to be a water pipe in Nada. You should filter this-But just pack in some two liters.
Winter is generally possible and there is enough steep stuff so you can climb or boulder in the rain.
CampingI think Miquels. Miguel's Pizza & Rock Climbing Shop
1890 Natural Bridge Rd, Slade, KY 40376
Phone: (606) 663-1975
Tenting sites at Natual Bridge State Park are $12.00 per night.
Staying at Hemlock Lodge in Natural Bridge State Park will cost quite a bit more.($95-$120 per night)
Areas owned by the Red River ClimbersJanuary 20, 2004, the RRGCC officially purchased the 700 acre Murray property and boldly stepped into the future.
The largest land acquisition by a climbing group is twenty miles south of the Gorge contains nearly 200 top quality rock routes along miles of red sandstone cliffs ranging from 5.6 to 5.14. The RRGCC, the new owners of the Murray property, is a non-profit organization dedicate to ensuring quality climbing opportunities for the recreating public.
|5.9 80ft||Tower Rock|
|5.8 90ft||Tower Rock|
|5.9 90 ft||Long Wall|
Bed Time for Bonzo
|5.6 80 ft||Fortress|
|5.7 70ft||Lady Slipper - Global Village|
Diamond in the Crack
|5.6 125ft||Jewel Pinnacle|
|5.8 140 ft||Long Wall|
|5.9 100ft||Muscle Beach|
|5.7 140ft||Roadside Park|
|5.8 60 ft||Fortress|
|5.8 120ft||Lady Slipper Emerald City|
|5.10 90ft||Long Wall|