The shortest and normal route to climb Quayrat it's not long but it's not very easy to find.
From Refuge d'Espingo (1967m):
Time to summit: 3h
From Granges d'Astau (1160m):
Time to summit: 5h 15 min.
Getting ThereSee the main page to approach to Granges d'Astau (1160m) and the page of Refuge d'Espingo to read the route to refuge ( 2h from Granges d'Astau )
We'll begin in the Refuge d’Espingo (1967m) walking to the Col of Espingo, at some meters where's is the crosspath. The best option is to get a path in SE direction in the green hillside. Below the peak Hount-Secs we’ll walk in a very long ramp with a lot of stones. A new path in the grassy terrain go to a little rocky wall (I). We'll entry in th great hillside of Quayrats with a lot of blocks of stone (patience and more patience if you want to climb the peak). In some sections it's possible to follow some paths in left side under the Petit Quayrat. After this endless walk we’ll reach a little spun what descent from Quayrat with an easy rock-climb in a chimney (I+, 20m). A wide channel is the evident entry to the mountain but the path disappear in some sections of cracked rock in some walls (I+), more sections of free stones and finally a new wall of II- (easy, not exposed, risk of fall of stones of the people above us). At last we’ll reach following the cairns a path to get the ridge North at 2780m. The rocks are better in the ridge with some step-crossings of I+ to get a wide ramp with zig-zag among terraces of rock and little paths. We’ll search the best pass always in the right side of the ramp turning to left under the last rocky section to get a chimney of II- to reach the summit North of Quayrat (3045m). Fortunately for us the route don’t go across the edge (impressive) and we’ll descend in left side a chimney of II- among the great blocks to exit to exposed terraces of 1 meter wide. The exit in the other side had a new chimney of II- to reach the entry of the summit. A surprise is waiting for us in the summit because a monolith exists!
Many mountaineers we think that the ascent of the monolith is not necessary to consider that has been stepped the summit. The ascent of the monolith is exposed with a step of III on the crack that separates him of another great rock. It exist risk of accidents for the people that do not be very high to reach the upper part with the hands. Not any form to assure the ascent exists and the descent generally obliges to jump to the rock. Too much danger for a simple rock that has 2 meters more than the top.
Essential GearA map is very usefull.
Spring and early on the summer is necessary the use of crampons and ice-axe. Rope it's not necessary for mountaineers but it's usefull for the hikers or begginers.