Follow approach trail from parking area - 15 minutes or less - to the east side of Middle Spire.
Start out in an awkward left-leaning hand crack, which becomes wide-hands, and then a nice lieback crack (wider, needs large pieces). Top out and belay from ledge.
At the ledge you can walk off the south side, or continue up a 5.8 chimney to the top. There are some cracks for pro, and a block which can be slung with a double-length runner. Belay from gear at the top or from anchor bolts.
Descend via rappel off anchor bolts / chains back to ledge and walk off.
SuperTopo recommends cams in the 0.75-3.5" range (2 each)
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