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Regular Route (Middle Spire)

Regular Route (Middle Spire)

Regular Route (Middle Spire)

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 38.78470°N / 120.2208°W

Object Title: Regular Route (Middle Spire)

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: rhyang

Created/Edited: Nov 28, 2005 / Nov 28, 2005

Object ID: 167746

Hits: 2650 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Follow approach trail from parking area - 15 minutes or less - to the east side of Middle Spire.

Route Description

Start out in an awkward left-leaning hand crack, which becomes wide-hands, and then a nice lieback crack (wider, needs large pieces). Top out and belay from ledge.

At the ledge you can walk off the south side, or continue up a 5.8 chimney to the top. There are some cracks for pro, and a block which can be slung with a double-length runner. Belay from gear at the top or from anchor bolts.

Descend via rappel off anchor bolts / chains back to ledge and walk off.

Essential Gear

SuperTopo recommends cams in the 0.75-3.5" range (2 each)

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


24-Nov-2005: Middle Spire,...24-Nov-2005: Middle Spire,...