ApproachAscend the gully between Castle Rock Spire and the Fin until it is possible to climb to the notch (some 4th class) on the south side of the spire.
Route DescriptionFrom the notch, traverse out more or less horizontally for a couple pitches, dropping down then climbing up to the dark tower, a massive, semi-detached formation on the east face. Work your way to the other side of this feature by walking behind it. The next pitch is the crux, a 2-4" crack leading up to a roof, followed by delicate face climbing.
Follow the obvious chimney system for a few pitches, then either wander to the right up the exposed, loose terrain around to the west side of the spire, or take an elegant, thin 5.11 finger crack to the left. Finish up obvious cracks to the summit.
Alois Smrz's Summitpost Page on the Regular Route
Essential GearIn May, an ice axe and crampons may be needed in the approach gully. Minimal 6-point crampons are usually adequate at this time of year.
Rack: Although some parties get by with less, we took, and used, (and were thankful for) 2 sets nuts and cams, tiny to four inches. Two 50m ropes are required to descend Spike Hairdoo in 3 rappels. with 60m ropes it is possible to rap Spike Hairdoo in 2 rappels.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Additions and Corrections[ Post an Addition or Correction ]