Regular Route Climber's Log
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|Alex Wood||ICY |
Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2013
|Started this climb a little late in the day (12:30ish). We ran into ice the whole way up the climb and it was a nightmare. We ended up finishing the last pitch with a headlamp and hiking back to the car in the dark. Give the Regular Route a few days to thaw out after an early fall snow storm..|
|Posted Nov 13, 2013 5:27 pm|
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2013
|One of the most amazing routes I have been on.|
Every single pitch on the lower half was incredibly memorable with mind-blowing moves/sequences past the cruxes. An ultra classic, the 3rd class ledge traverse high up on the face of Fairview dome was spectacular/mind blowing. Gives you a big wall feel climbing on this face as you get higher and higher on it...Incredible small knobs high up on the face with some exhilarating face climbign with nothing but air under you. Some of the most satisfying hand jams was abundant on this route!
First pitch was wet which caused some serious awkwardness. Much props to my partner for pulling through the wet 5.9 crux and for his grace, talent, and incredible mental strength on this route.
|Posted Aug 30, 2013 2:02 am|
|Miguel Carmona and I climbed the Regular Route in 1984. My climbing notes say that the climb was fairly good, but not really one of "Fifty Classics". The first pitch had running water on it. There were only some five pitches of real technical climbing, rest was a scramble to the top. The next day, we climbed a much better route, the Regular Route on Third Pillar of Dana.|
|Posted Dec 22, 2012 3:44 pm|
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2011
|A fun & beautiful day spent with some great company. |
The party in front of us was a bit slow but they were super nice and the pair after us were mellow and super friendly, so we all had a good time.
This is our second attempt. Glad that we made it. The first attempt we got behind some ridiculously slow parties and had to bail before even jumping on the route.
|Posted Sep 17, 2012 5:34 am|
|Seth Maciejowski||Sweet! |
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2012
|Awesome route! Book P3 the open book 5.7 fingers pitch is excellent. I hate laybacking but grabbing those pin scars is pure joy! 5.7 roof pitch also quite good as is the 5.4 traverse on p8? I think....|
Walk off was even great!
|Posted Aug 3, 2012 3:25 pm|
|ElGreco||A 70m rope... |
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2012
|... is unquestionably the way to go on this route. |
The climbing is sustained to the crux on p1. The crux is short and is followed by immediate relief. Then head straight for the tree and belay. I found leading the crux on p1 easier than following p2 (which is also sustained)... My calves felt it.
The "large white flake" on the supertopo is one of the most enjoyable parts of the climb. I went left. Glorious hand jams below and a large horn higher up which you can sling for bomber pro and jug on.
One of the pins just below Crescent Ledge is rotten - don't trust it. The head is cut and it wobbles.
There is a stuck cam on the arch before the roof where the arch slants right. The roof itself is fun and protects well. The crack at its base will take a small-medium cam. Extend that with a double sling and then clip the pin above the roof (which seems solid). Then move right and tackle the roof on good jugs.
The remainder of the climb eases considerably. There is a glorious, comfy belay balcony next to a big tree after the long right traverse! After that, a handful of thin face/friction moves and lots of 3rd, 4th and easy 5th separate you from the top.
|Posted Jul 31, 2012 8:14 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2011
|Climbed with my friend Kali and met SPer Vitaliy on the climb. The first 2 pitches are sustained but it eases up substantially afterwards. I carried nuts and cams up to #2 but never even placed the #2. Good pro is available just about everywhere.|
|Posted Jul 6, 2011 2:15 pm|
|Vitaliy M.||one of 50 classics! |
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2011
|Climbed with a good friend. Got to lead the crux 5.9 pitch-clean (even though it had water all over the crux)! Very exciting climb. Clean rock, good pro.|
|Posted Jul 5, 2011 4:15 pm|
|Dow Williams||Fairview Dome |
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2011
|The end of a 4 day climbing trip with Peter S up and down the Eastern Sierra...climbed in the morning, drove home to St. George in the afternoon (the back way=remote)...truly my favorite stretch of road anywhere, 2nd trip through that section of NV. Not a stellar climb from a climber's perspective (least interesting climbing of the trip), but worth doing if you don't have to deal with folks. Lucky for us, it rained the previous day, all day, and we had the entire dome to ourselves...that I can live with! After a big rain like that, both the first and second pitches are covered in drainage, but I have climbed much worse. If a bit of water delivers the route human free, I am all over that exchange.|
|Posted Jul 1, 2011 10:19 am|
|One of my favorite climbs while workin in the park. Climbed with 2 buddies from TML.|
|Posted Feb 8, 2011 10:33 pm|
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2010
|Long day from Fresno and back. Got stuck behind a slow leader for 10hrs of climbing. But I gotta do it again and lead the first pitch.|
|Posted Nov 23, 2010 9:49 pm|
|Considerably easier after first two pitches, surprisingly easy walk off|
|Posted Oct 1, 2010 7:14 am|
|biz||Great fun! |
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2010
|A very fun climb with JB. Got stuck behind some slow climbers, which cost us about 3-4 hours, but had decent weather. The first pitch was wet, adding a little spice. Loved the 2-4th pitches and the 6th.|
|Posted Jul 29, 2010 1:48 pm|
|haishan||wet crack |
Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2002
|Snowstorm a couple days earlier left the crack on pitches 1 & 3 cold and dripping wet. I remember chalking hands and wiping shoes on my pant legs after every sequence... I was sketched. Warmth & sunshine on upper pitches made this one of the most enjoyable climbs I've done.|
|Posted Sep 27, 2009 6:23 pm|
|Sienna||What a great time |
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009
|I loved this climb, and thought the third pitch was the best pitch ever.|
|Posted Jul 24, 2009 5:55 pm|
|Groundswell||damp down low|
|Climbed once in mid 90s with Tyler. I remember first pitch was pretty wet. super fun climb|
|Posted Mar 24, 2009 11:39 am|
|tb00957||regular route |
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2008
|We were lucky to be second party in line. This is very popular route. It gets easier considerably after the 1st pitch, but still a very nice route on a very prominent dome.|
|Posted Oct 6, 2008 4:58 pm|
|Sierra Ledge Rat||1980|
|Regular route on a cold, cold day|
|Posted Jul 18, 2008 1:20 am|
|kovarpa||really nice |
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2008
|climb with Kris and Misha. 6.5 hrs not bad for a team of three. Linked P1 and P2 with 60 m rope.|
|Posted Jun 30, 2008 5:53 pm|
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2008
|Climbed with Pavel and Kris on a beautiful afternoon. Wildfire smoke from the previous day got thinner which revealed incredible views and, to our amazement, we were the only party on the route. Started at noon and topped out at 6:30pm; just enough to get mexican dinner in Groveland on the way home. Great clean climbing and with lots of memorable places. First pitch crux challenged me a bit (my first real weekend in the mountains this season). Will do again!|
|Posted Jun 30, 2008 4:19 pm|