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Resolution Arete, V, 5.11d

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Resolution Arete, V, 5.11d
5th Pitch- 200’- 5.8R/ This is the most difficult pitch (with beta all over the place) in terms of route finding and just so happens to be the most run out of the day as well. For me, it can be said much simpler than what I have read to date. FOLLOW the white corner/flake above, moving to the better corner/crack to the left. Then follow it up until it terminates onto a sloping ledge. Traverse hard right following varnished foot edges, until you can start climbing up at a rightward angle on decent varnish with some decent pro in intermittent cracks. Constantly angle up and right aiming for a shoulder you cannot see. Once at the shoulder which is a full 200’ at this point, you won’t have much if any gear placement. Since I had a 70m rope, I continued up to boulder I could sling. Rope drag will be huge on this pitch. Either run one rope only until you make the traverse back right, of if on a single, use double length slings on that corner you followed to the sloping ledge. I would be wary of some beta that suggests climbing the face above on white run out mossy sandstone. Makes no sense when the corner can at least protect you to the sloping ledge. (photo)
Resolution Arete, V, 5.11d, Mount Wilson, Red Rocks, NV, April, 2009


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Dow WilliamsSubmitted by Dow Williams
on Apr 16, 2009 3:13 pm

Image ID: 506551
Hits: 797 
Object Title: Resolution Arete, V, 5.11d

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing