Page Type: | Route |
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Route Type: | Trad Climbing |
Time Required: | Half a day |
Difficulty: | F1**** |
Number of Pitches: | 6 |
Aspect: Southeast, sunny
Best time: Any time of year, but the approach scramble below the first pitch can be wet and slippery in summer.
2. 45 m (F1). This pitch is climbed by starting just right of a slightly overhanging 5m crack with good positive holds. Climb up 5m then make an awkward move up left through notch to easy ground above. Then climb straight up the easy rock and grass above to the top of the buttress. Walk up the ridge to a small easy angled buttress.
3. 50m (C). Start in the middle of the ridge and climb to a short steep section where one moves to the left side and continue straight up over scrappy rock/grass to level ground and the start of a very narrow section of ridge.4. 30m (D). The knife-edge ridge. This pitch starts by getting on top of a one metre high bollard of rock then onto the narrow ridge. Move along it and pass a block on it’s left side then up to a huge block at the highest point on the ridge. Good belays at the stance.
5. 50m (C). Scramble down on the left of the large block and walk along the easy ridge to where the "S" ridge butts onto the main mountain of the Rhino.6. 20m (F1). Slightly left of where the ridge joins the main mountain, an old peg, at shoulder height can be found. Climb slightly right up the broken face to a small tongue of grass between two pieces of rock at 10m and a very welcome piton. Pull up onto a little platform above the grassy tongue (crux). Move right 2m on good rock then up 2m, then back left 3m to belay below an overhanging, mushroom shaped rock.
From here one can just scramble up to the right and through 2 rock bands then left to gain the Rhino summit ridge and turn right to the top.There is an easy C grade scramble variation instead of the final crux pitch, however the crux is worth doing. At the end of pitch 5
where the ridge abuts to the main mountain, turn left and walk 35m along a sloping grass shelf. Then turn up and follow a gully back upto the right to the mushroom shaped rock. Then follow the preceding description to the summit.
2 x 50m half ropes. Standard Berg rack