OverviewQuite famous mountaineering ridge in High Tatra Mountains. Route leads between two tops from "TOP 5" (by height) in Tatras - Lomnicky(2632m) and Pysny Stit(2625m). It's an interesting ridge, due to exposition, pretty vievs and chance to achieve this honorary summits in one day.
Technical difficult is less, amount to II in UIAA scale, and A0 in Frantz Chimney - iron steps etc. (in my opinion unnecessarily) - on the last fragment near Lomnica top.
Normal time wrote in guidebooks is about 3 hours, however recommended is more time store on possibly route finding problems.
It can be a beautiful trip, which definitely requires experience and region knowledge from climbers.
Starting points and approachThere are two main variants of route:
1/ Normal = Pysny Stit - Lomica
This approach starts from Smokovec, beautyful old city in High Tatras.
To Hrebieniok you can get by cable railway (some kind of train), or on foot (45min). Next 2h by green/red marked trails to Tereho Chata(after 45min passes Zamkovskeho chata).
This fragment I have taken from Dynercias' normal route site to don't write 2 times the same text on SP. If you like it, vote her. :)
When you stay before the chalet you see in the north-east direction Pyšný Štit and on the left at the foot a little cirque (Spiski Kocioł). A distinct, deep gully runs to this cirque from Lastovičia Štrbina / Durna Przełęcz, which separates Pyšný Štit from Malý Pyšný Štit.
Our rout goes alongshore Prostredne Spišské Pleso / Pośredni Spiski Staw, next through grass and scree to the mouth of this couloir. Here turn left and follow a wide, scree-grassy ledge running steeply obliquely up (distinct path and cairns) to the next couloir, which runs from Malá Lastovičia Štrbina / Mała Durna Przełęcz (between Malý Pyšný Štit and Strapatá Veža) – you reach this gully over a lower vertical step.
Next climb up by this gully, through a few easy steps on Malá Lastovičia Štrbina (2h).
On the pass turn right (south-east) and follow a ridge (better a bit on Vel’ká Zmrzla Valley side) on the top of Malý Pyšný Štit (15 min) and next climb down by easy grassy-rocky slope on Lastovičia Štrbina (10 min). The Loktibrada / Durna Igła, which stick up from the pass, take from Vel’ká Zmrzla Valley side.
Next follow the ridge still in the same direction (better a bit on Vel’ká Zmrzla Valley side) to the summit of Pyšný Štit (20 min).
2/ Against direction= Lomicky - Pysny Stit.
There are few ways to get on Lomica top (our starting point).
-cable car on the summit - the shortest, but more amateur and less romantic way
-from Lomicka Przelecz (Lomicka Pass) (2190m) - from Tatranska Lomica (850m) after long (3h) approach, or by cable-chair on the Pass. Next by nice via ferrata, 1 1/2h on the top, good warm-up - I have chosen this option.
-other normal/climbing routes on Lomnica - look main site.
Route DescriptionDescription of normal variant from Pysny Stit. If you'll climb from Lomnica, do it opposite.
From Pysny Stit go to bottom edge when shortly begin drop, left on shelf by steps (0+). From there, up, by a little exposed fragment to small pass (I). Next right site of fault by crack (I, expansion bolt) to lower pass - 2590 m. After it by left - Dolina Dzika - side by wide depression (exposition), at first easy, and next harder (II) by drop and few rock steps to easier ground (2565m). By easy grass steps again on ridge and on Klimkova Pass (2535 m) - 1h.
From Pass climb ridge through Durną Turniczkę to Zebata Szczerbina (2535 m). Next by vertical step (I), on ledge at right from Zebata Turniczka top and via bad rocky ground to Wyznia Posrednia Pass (2530m). 15min
Next right from ridge by narrow shelf (I) and up frail gully (0+) on the little pass. Now by Dolina Dzika side down, and after it up (chain) to gully which on ridge (0+, chain). We have just traversed Posrednia Turnia. Next fragment on south, and by rib on wall, fall down to deep pass. Go via wall down (I) to Posrednia Pass (2510m, lowest pass in ridge) - 30min.
From pass up by step (0+) and soon right by exposed place (II, expansion bolt) on ledge, which to gully (south side) and short on ridge (0+). From here by through shelfs on Dolina Dzika side to chute and by it on Pass pod Lomnica. (2525m) - 30min
From the Pass left to ridge and by ledge to start of almost vertical Frantz Chimney. Now 30 m up ( big exposition, lot of protection, imitation iron steps). Next by easy rocks (we pass a rappel stance - useful in Against direction) on the top of Lomnica. 45min
DescentAfter finished ridge, use normal routes in descent - look "Starting points and approach section.
Essential Gear-50m rope
-another normal protection gear