Simu solo with Eric Klostermann Date Climbed: Oct 8, 1998
On October 8th 1998, I sat in the living room of Eric Klostermann's home in Bishop. We sipped coffee and stared at Mt. Humphreys. He asked me if I climbed any of the gullies. My -no- answer set up the next three climbs for us. The first one, climbed next morning, was the Checkered Demon. Eric drove his truck up to the Cirque bellow the peak and from there, we hiked to the base. There are two couloirs at the base of Checkered Demon Peak, the left one, Kindergarten Couloir and the right one, the Checkered Demon Couloir which was our goal.We brought a rope and ice screws, but since the couloir was in perfect conditions, decided to solo the gully, climbing together. In the upper part, we took the right fork. Above the fork, the gully narrows and becomes mixed. It took us about 3 hours to do it. We were slowed in the last 200-300 feet, where we had to be careful soloing 4th class loose rock mixed with hard ice. This is a very good route when in conditions. I heard that in the last couple of years, there was no ice in the upper part of the climb, which would make it loose, dangerous 4th class. Recommended when in condition. I thought this was easily one of the BEST quality couloirs in the Sierra. Can be done easily in one day RT from Bishop.
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--Peter Gibbons (Office Space)