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Right Toilet Crack
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Right Toilet Crack

 
Right Toilet Crack

Page Type: Route

Location: Utah, United States, North America

Object Title: Right Toilet Crack

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 2

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: hkutuk

Created/Edited: Nov 2, 2006 / Nov 3, 2006

Object ID: 240711

Hits: 4779 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach

From the end of the canyon at Temple of Sinawava jump the woodden fence behind the toilets. There is a faint climbers path that will take you up and towards the base of the climb. You will notice the Tourist crack on your right but you need to go north (direction of Narrows) and uphill around the corner of the large buttress. Once around the corner, you will see the distinct dihedral forming the Right Toilet Crack. To the left of the Right Toilet Crack is another two-pitch crack climb called the Left Toilet Crack.
 
Right Toilet Crack
Toilet Cracks.


You will have quite an audience when climbing this route as many tourists will stop and watch you climbing. This route will stay in the shade in the morning and sunny in the afternoon.

Route Description

This is a two pitch crack but getting to the base of the first pitch requires mantling a tree which felt like a 5.7 move so roping up is a good idea. The first pitch is quite physical starting with a wide opening move which takes a #5 camalot unfortunately this also blocks your best foot hold. Jam your way until you are in the squeeze. The left wall of the squeeze takes small gear. Reach above the roof for a good hand jam and get your self out of the squeeze. The rest of the crack gets smaller but footholds appear on the side walls. Belay at the bolt anchor.
 
Right Toilet Crack
Base of the climb
 
Right Toilet Crack
Beginning of first pitch.
 
Right Toilet Crack
Squeeze section of the crack.
 
Right Toilet Crack
Above the squeeze


The second pitch is a lot more aesthetic and regular which is relatively wide (#3 camalot). Stem and jam your way to the bolt anchors in the right facing corner.

Essential Gear

Set of TCUs from blue to red, doubles of #0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3 camalots, one #3.5 and one #5 camalot for the opening move of the first pitch. Single 60m rope is sufficient to rappel down.

Images

Right Toilet CrackRight Toilet CrackRight Toilet CrackRight Toilet CrackRight Toilet Crack