| Rinka direct, VI/V, 400m (600m) Route |
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| Rinka direct, VI/V, 400m (600m)   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Kamnik-Savinja Alps, Slovenia, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.36905°N / 14.56817°E Route Type: Trad Climbing Season: Summer Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: UIAA VI/V, 400m Number of Pitches: 15
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| Page By: borutbk Created/Edited: Mar 12, 2009 / Sep 12, 2011 Object ID: 497389 Hits: 1853 Loading... Page Score: 88.03% - 12 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewThe 600m tall Štajerska Rinka N face had first been ascended in 1931. By the early 1950s, above Okrešelj the main interest had shifted to the central feature: the barrier of overhangs. Rado Kočevar and Milan Pintar opened the Direct, the second route on the wall, in the summer of 1953.
The here presented shortened version (often in use) crosses the buttress to the left at two thirds of the face, exiting along the enormous ledge, around the famous NE pillar.
Getting ThereLet us start from Okrešelj.
Info on how to get to the Okrešelj meadow and its enjoyable hut may also be found on the Rinka page.
We follow the signs for Savinjsko sedlo, and the marked path easily leaves us off at the scree below the wall. It takes one hour from the hut to the top of the scree. We notably pass in front of the Turski žleb couloir which will be the way of our descent (between Turska gora and Mala Rinka) if we plan a round trip.Route Description
P1 To the left of the lowest rock of the wall (snow) we notice an apparent gendarme which we climb from left to right (II).
P2 We now traverse left along a slab (VI-). Up the funnel, and then avoiding the overhang to the right around the rib (V+). Belay at the base of a book.
P3 Dihedral (V+). Upon exiting we discover a large ledge on our right.
P4 and P5 have a IVish feel (once maybe IV+, much III). The inclination is lesser and we follow the evident cracks and small ledge systems in direction of the now well visible big roof.
P6 (V+) We avoid an overhang on its left and then climb the following dihedral, slighly to the right till a comfortable ledge.
P7 Straight up the crack (start left) and slab, till definetely bumping into the roof (V+).
P8 is the crux (VI). It simply follows the horizontal crack at the base of the roof, traversing left, exiting with a sudden E view around the edge of the wall.
P9 follows a chaotic but comfortable ledge slightly ascending to the left (III). Belay before the ravine.
P10 Make almost a right U turn, ascending flatter slabs (III) towards the entrance of an evident chimney. Belay at its foot.
P11 & 12 After the chimney (V-), yet follow the next one (III), arriving finally to the enormous ledge, at the base of the summital wall. Here the original route continues straight up (IV).
Having chosen the left exit, we may now untie, change shoes and follow the ledge to the left around the famous NE pillar and feel our way up the large gully II-III (one squeeze, IV) leading to the notch between our mountain and Mala Rinka to the left (equivalent of four pitches). We are now right above the Mali Podi karstic grounds (Bivouac, see the Rinka page).
DESCENT: to the left (E) along the inner (SW) side of the Mala Rinka ridge until soon running into the marked path through Turski Zleb, the ravine which leads back down to Okreselj.
Essential GearThe route is frequented and well protected with pegs. In any case we will have the usual reserve pegs (say 3 flat & two profiles), and maybe a couple of medium to medium small cams.
External LinksLitterature in Slovene:
Slovenske stene, a reference book including excellent topos.
Logar valley, western part, a climbing guide including excellent topos.
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Kamnik-Savinja Alps
