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Rising Expectations (C1)

 
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Rising Expectations (C1)
Shirley sampling her first aid lead on Rising Expectations (5.11d or in our case C1) on Monkey's east face. The thin crack on the right is East Face (5.13d or C2+). The rope is hanging on Just Do It (5.14). Photo credit goes to Coolpix timelapse feature. Different angle view of East Face and Rising Expectations here. September 2007.

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jhalzWell Done Shirley

jhalz

Voted 10/10

Jealous once again!
Posted Sep 17, 2007 2:07 pm

rpcRe: Well Done Shirley

rpc

Hasn't voted

thanks Jason - fun route (from the safety of the aiders :)

you been busy at work lately?
Posted Sep 17, 2007 2:32 pm

jhalzRe: Well Done Shirley

jhalz

Voted 10/10

Extremely busy with work! We did manage to make it out to Spring Mountain Saturday however. Not my favorite place, but it was nice to get out and try somewhere new.
Posted Sep 17, 2007 3:15 pm

rpcRe: Well Done Shirley

rpc

Hasn't voted

"Spring Mountain"

nice trip Jason - how come you don't like it? most bolted stuff?
Posted Sep 17, 2007 4:29 pm

rpcRe: Forgive my ignorance...

rpc

Hasn't voted

"How much does aiding reduce a routes grade? "

In our case...

different animal - C1 means we both "did the route" almost without touching the actual stone (you stand in aiders clipped to protection & you grab nylon slings & pro for whole pitch). "C1" means that nearly every piece was good enough to take a substantial fall onto (as opposed to body weigth only) = safe.

"5.11d" is the free rating whereby you climb the face & crack w/o grabbing the protection at all (other than to place it). Waaay out of my leage.

Hope this explains some of your questions?
Thank you for visiting & good vote jfox!
Cheers.

PS of course there are pitches that perhaps go wholly free at 5.11 but the .11 portion might be aidable...they might get a rating of say 5.9 C1 or something...a mixed bag.
Posted Sep 18, 2007 6:39 pm

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Image Data
rpcSubmitted by rpc
on Sep 17, 2007 12:36 pm

Image ID: 337877
Hits: 1621 
Lat/Lon: 44.36780°N / 121.1455°W
Object Title: Rising Expectations (C1)

Image Type(s): Aid Climbing