Overview & History"This abandoned quarry, until recently primarily a practice aid-climbing wall, has been converted into one of Southtern California's most intriguing sport climbing resources. The crag's specialty: super-long, single-pitch, bolted routes (up to 170'!), ranging in difficulty from about 5.8 to 5.14a, on highly featured granite. Because the wall has been subjected to blasting, development for sport climbing has necessitated a substantial amount of cleaning dangerous, loose blocks, and reinforcing some loose holds with glue. Stay off red-tagged routes, as these are in the process of being cleaned, and are not yet safe to climb. Be forewarned that the quarry has long been used as a dump, and as such, litter and graffitti abound. However, the lack of aesthetic beauty of the surroundings is more than compensated for by the superb and unique quality of the routes." (Quoted from Rockclimbing.com)
Getting ThereGetting to the Quarry is fairly simple. Located conviently off the fwy in the Riverside Area, from the 60 Frwy exit Valley Way and go north. Valley Way turns into Armstrong Rd. Make a right at Sierra Ave. and go about 3 blocks (the street will curve to the right) Park on the street and walk into the Quarry. There are some climber trails to get through the brush and dirt. You'll have to nagivate around the dumped messes.
A Note From The Author
My first visit to the Quarry came in 1978 with a crazy Vietnam Vet named Jack Huges. Jack was a friend of my dad and largely responsible for some of my early climbing adventures. We set up some scary topropes somewhere on the right fringe of what's now the Taboo Area. Miraculously (for our skills at the time) none of our anchors pulled and we had a lot of fun climbing the short clean slabs.
I didn't return until about 1984 when I began to become more interested in aid climbing. At that time the Quarry was the scene of an underground aid climbing boom. I nailed my way out the fun traverse of Romp, and met the area's prime developers, Richard Jensen adn Mark Smith. These two were regularly nailing and heading up the rotten seams and blast lines of the crag, claiming that they were the perfect mental training ground for the heady wall climbing found in Yosemite Valley. The pair went on to establish the unrepeated Wings of Steel (A5) on El Capitan, and repeat what was considered at the time the hardest wall in the world, Sea of Dreams (A5) also on El Capitan. Taking this into consideration, I imagine they knew what they were talking about. Over the next several years they showed me the better lines in the Quarry and I enjoyed practicing my piton and heading skills, as well as polishing my rope management and freeing a few of the cleaner cracks.
Jumping forward several years. It's now the early 90's and I'm becoming more and more of a sport climber; focusing most of my energy on developing new routes. Several times between then and now I have visited the Quarry and walked along the base of its walls; knowing that they would probably offer good climbing, but also knowing that the work to clean them up would be extreme. Much of that work has now been done and I'm pleased to offer the first modern guidebook to the climbing found in the Quarry. If you're looking for aid and traditional climbing, you'll find a handful of great routes. Sport climbing, however, is the main offering of the area and the sport routes and where the Quarry really shines.
Enjoy the climbing adn be safe out there.
Climbing AreasThere are Nine Main Climbing Areas and new routes are developing on the south side. These are listed from North to South (or looking at the rock, from Left to Right)
A. Slab City
B. Metro Sector
C. Left of the Roof
D. Roof Area
E. Right of the Roof
- Whammy - 5.10b
- Power Play - 5.10d
F. Slide Zone
G. The Shield
H. Taboo Area
I. Agony Arch Area
- Fear The Smear - 5.8
CampingThere is no camping in the Quarry, although you might see some homeless peoples shelters. There are several Hotels/Motels in the local area that you can stay in.
External LinksRock Climbing.com - Riverside Quarry
Riverside Quarry Climbers Guide - Louie Anderson