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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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43.79110°N / 116.0907°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.9-5.12 |
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Approach
From the Bogus Creek Lodge, drive 4.5 miles on dirt to reach the climbs. They will be on your right hand side. At mile 3.3 you'll see a turn off (right) for the Shafer Butte Picnic Area.Route Description
On the lower slopes of Mores Mountain's north side are two prominent rock towers that contain over 23 rock climbs. The rock sits just a hundred feet off the road and provides an excellent escape from Boise's summer heat. At an elevation of 6600 feet, the climbing has more of an alpine or mountain feel to it, than say the Black Cliffs sport climbing area. Nevertheless, the Mores Mountain climbing area is highly bolted. The nature of the rock varies, with granite slabs and tiny crystalline features being the predominant feel. There are also a few cracks and small overhangs to negotiate. There are two main rocks, Roadside Rock and the Pincer.In 1995 most of the initial climbing development took place on Mores Mountain. More recently, a new area on the east side of Mores Mountain right off the bike trail has seen development. The easiest known climb in the area is a 5.9, with many tougher climbs in the 5.10-5.11 range. Sandy Epeldi's Boise Climbs book is an excellent reference along with his web site.
| Roadside Rock (from left to right) | |||
| Life Without Beer | 5.10b | 4 bolts to the hangers just under a roof | Possible cam placement near 2nd bolt |
| Deliverance | 5.10a | Dirty crack climb | Descend from tree ledge |
| The Long and Winding Road | 5.11d | 9 bolts finishes near tree | Crumbly rock at the crux |
| Computer Girl | 5.9 | 2 Pitches / 16 bolts | Finishes on top of the formation |
| Midnight Visitor | 5.10b | 8 bolts to hangers just below the top | Starts near a tree |
| After Midnight | 5.9 | 12 bolts | Starts on Midnight Visitor and finishes on Shades of Gray |
| Heart of Darkness | 5.10b | 15 bolts to hangers | Starts on Midnight Visitor and traverses onto Junkie Cosmonaut |
| Junkie Cosmonaut | 5.12c | 5 bolts to hangers | May want to use a stick clip on first bolt |
| Freaky Toy Girl | 5.10d | 5 bolts to hangers | Use the Junkie Cosmonaut hangers |
| Shades of Gray | 5.10b | 17 bolts from the ground | Use 2 ropes to rappel |
| The Pincer Rock Formation | See the Boise Climbs Book for more | At least 10 known routes |
The climbing season is generally May through October and in the winter the road is closed due to snow.
| The current USGS quad is outdated for this area and does not show the Boise Front Road or picnic road to the Mores Mountain Campground. For this image, I traced the current road locations using aerial photographs laid on top of the older USGS quad. |   |