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Roadside Rock Climbing Area
Route

Roadside Rock Climbing Area

 
Roadside Rock Climbing Area

Page Type: Route

Location: Idaho, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 43.79110°N / 116.0907°W

Object Title: Roadside Rock Climbing Area

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.9-5.12

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: SawtoothSean

Created/Edited: Jan 26, 2006 / Jan 29, 2010

Object ID: 168346

Hits: 2868 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Approach

From the Bogus Creek Lodge, drive 4.5 miles on dirt to reach the climbs. They will be on your right hand side. At mile 3.3 you'll see a turn off (right) for the Shafer Butte Picnic Area.

Route Description

On the lower slopes of Mores Mountain's north side are two prominent rock towers that contain over 23 rock climbs.  The rock sits just a hundred feet off the road and provides an excellent escape from Boise's summer heat. At an elevation of 6600 feet, the climbing has more of an alpine or mountain feel to it, than say the Black Cliffs sport climbing area. Nevertheless, the Mores Mountain climbing area is highly bolted.  The nature of the rock varies, with granite slabs and tiny crystalline features being the predominant feel. There are also a few cracks and small overhangs to negotiate.  There are two main rocks, Roadside Rock and the Pincer.  

In 1995 most of the initial climbing development took place on Mores Mountain.  More recently, a new area on the east side of Mores Mountain right off the bike trail has seen development.  The easiest known climb in the area is a 5.9, with many tougher climbs in the 5.10-5.11 range. Sandy Epeldi's Boise Climbs book is an excellent reference along with his web site.

Roadside Rock (from left to right)      
       
Life Without Beer 5.10b 4 bolts to the hangers just under a roof Possible cam placement near 2nd bolt
Deliverance 5.10a Dirty crack climb Descend from tree ledge
The Long and Winding Road 5.11d 9 bolts finishes near tree Crumbly rock at the crux
Computer Girl 5.9 2 Pitches / 16 bolts Finishes on top of the formation
Midnight Visitor 5.10b 8 bolts to hangers just below the top Starts near a tree
After Midnight 5.9 12 bolts Starts on Midnight Visitor and finishes on Shades of Gray
Heart of Darkness 5.10b 15 bolts to hangers Starts on Midnight Visitor and traverses onto Junkie Cosmonaut
Junkie Cosmonaut 5.12c 5 bolts to hangers May want to use a stick clip on first bolt
Freaky Toy Girl 5.10d 5 bolts to hangers Use the Junkie Cosmonaut hangers
Shades of Gray 5.10b 17 bolts from the ground Use 2 ropes to rappel
       
The Pincer Rock Formation   See the Boise Climbs Book for more At least 10 known routes

The climbing season is generally May through October and in the winter the road is closed due to snow.

The current USGS quad is outdated for this area and does not show the Boise Front Road or picnic road to the Mores Mountain Campground.  For this image, I traced the current road locations using aerial photographs laid on top of the older USGS quad.  

 


Essential Gear

Full rock climbing rack, quickdraws, 2 ropes, and a helmet. Also, if your okay with it, a stick clip (ugh!)

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Boise Peak Winter SceneMores Mountain Roadside Rock...Shafer Butte (left) and Mores...