OverviewThis is a very scenic falls that cascades from the cirque on the west face of Giant Mountain.
Roaring Brook Falls can be considered one of the finest climbs of its grade in the North East.
The challenging first pitch and the reliable second pitch in addition to the views of the valley, you get while climbing, make this climb a must for any visitor to the Dacks. On a sunny day when the ice is thick, there can not be a better place where to climb. But keep in mind, a crash into the falls would be fatal...The entire first pitch rumbles loudly as a reminder that this is alive feature.
Getting ThereThe climb is easily viewed form the road looking to the right driving toward Keene Valley a little after passing the Spider Web Wall.
Park in the hiker`s parking area, additional parking is available across the road.
Approach via the flat and easy path that breaks right from the hikers` trail up Giant Mountain.
Route DescriptionThe first pitch starts at the base of the fall, and for about 100 feet, climbs a steeper and cauliflowered section, before mellowing and becoming almost flat toward the end of the pitch. With a 70 meters rope you can belay from some small trees on the flat part, or with shorter ropes you need to set up a screws belay. In certain conditions this pitch can be quite more challenging than WI3+.
The second pitch is almost flat, especially if there is a lot of snow on the ground.
The third pitch steepens again and climbs the top part of the waterfall, this pitch is normally in better conditions than the first one, and it can be quite fun with a vertical part in the center portion and a narrower and less than vertical portion at the exit.
From the top of the climb, you can quickly walk back to the car following the trail, or you can rappel the route.
there are bolts for belay at the end of the first pitch and at the beginning of the third pitch, but they are hard to see and they get covered by snow in mid winter.