Walk up the talus and across the SouthWest Shoulder Approach, towards the Durrance Route. This route is right of Centennial and left of The Devil Made Me Do It !! The route goes just to the right of the lowest roof ( a twin roof) in this area. Higher, another roof is passed on its left and above that is another roof that you go straight over.
This route was done in the summer of 2000 by Gene Jose & Frank Sanders. It is a Marvelous, solid, easy-aid route with secure hanging belays and spectacular yet straightforward roofs to climb around and through. A 3 Star Classic with no loose sections !!.......anymore.
Pitch 1. (160 ft., A1) "Goat Roper's Pitch". Climb this right facing corner on Blades, Bugs and Lost Arrows. Set a hanging belay, wherever you want, the crack is skinny but deep and takes anything that you put in.It has not been done clean and would probably require 2 dozen #1 stoppers and alot more time and difficulty.
Pitch 2. (145 ft., A2) "Lady's Barrel-Racing". As you continue up the crack it gets wider and shallower, accepting TCU's, small Friends, etc. Like a slalom course or a barrel-race, you pass the 1st roof on its right and the 2nd roof on its left. Set your belay, above a small tree, as high as you can get, before the nature of the rock softens.
Pitch 3. (220 ft., A2, 5.7) "Men's Bull Riding" (Both Beautiful and Brutal). Just past the belay, the crack narrows to Blades and Bugs again, then gradually widens to the roof. Your pieces are all up-side-down,and the dangling can get tiring, but you can still be quite secure. Turn the roof with a #4.5 and #5 Camalot and crank the crack above. You can free climb to the summit. It is a long pitch, so look to find a secure anchor or be prepared to tie in the haul line, to make the rope reach to the summit, as the 1st party did.
Standard aid & free racks. Extra Lost Arrows (long) for the 1st pitch. Lots of big stuff for the last pitch. You NEED something that is #4.5 & #5 Camalot size for the roof.
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.