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Room to Shroom, 5.9-5.10b
Mountain/Rock

Room to Shroom, 5.9-5.10b

 
Room to Shroom, 5.9-5.10b

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.03626°N / 116.14683°W

Object Title: Room to Shroom, 5.9-5.10b

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Dec 14, 2011 / Feb 28, 2013

Object ID: 765606

Hits: 541 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Room to Shroom, 5.9
Room to Shroom, 5.9

During a cold mid-week day in December, we had South Wonderland all to ourselves. We truly never heard nor laid eyes on another human all day. One of the main objectives on a cold day of course was to chase the sun. This classic route fest led us in a circle from Foolproof Tower (High Strung) to Lenticular Dome (Mental Physics) to Room to Shroom. Room to Shroom’s classic route, its namesake (a 5.9 leaning crack), faces due west. Therefore a PM visit during the winter months makes sense for this classic. One of the advantages of this small crag is the sense of remoteness. It is sort of tucked away. We boulder hopped in from the northwest scrambling through interesting terrain and unique rock formations.
 
Room to Shroom
 

The route Room to Shroom makes Miramontes “12 terrific trad moderates” list and deserves it. Another decent crack route on the same west facing wall is Chemical Warfare (5.10b) which shares the same slab finish with Room to Shroom. Mud Dog (5.10a) climbs the rap line on the south facing wall. It is a decent corner/crack pitch.

Afterwards a local told me he was surprised we found Room to Shroom straight away indicating that others might have trouble doing so. I created a winter day cirque at Wonderland South taking advantage of the sun. Therefore I approached Room to Shroom from the northwest, just past the south faces of the North and South Astrodomes. Many folks, if just going for this crag specifically, would venture in from the parking area straight away across the dry lakebed, from the east. In any regard, Room to Shroom likes directly to the southeast of the south Astrodome. Its west face crack is unmistakable from the photos provided, but if coming from the east, the rap tree above the south face (photo) would be the better landmark.

Route Description(s)

 
Room to Shroom, 5.9
 

Routes Listed Left to Right; West to East

West Wall

  • Chemical Warfare- Single Pitch- 5.10a/*
  • A traversing crack that comes in from the left and joins Room to Shroom at the slab.

  • Room to Shroom- Single Pitch- 5.9/***
  • We came in from the west (Lenticular Dome), so scrambled through some amazing boulders to the base of this pitch. Excellent hands and fingers and then a run out slab leads over to the south wall to a tree. I placed four pieces, C4 #1, 2-#2's and a #3 I believe. High Strung, Mental Physics and then Room to Shroom...these routes are in perfect order during a cold winter day to take advantage of the sun. Dow

    South Wall

  • Mud Dog- Single Pitch- 5.10a/
  • A corner/crack that runs straight up to the rap tree on the south face.

    External Links

  • Joshua Tree National Park Including Map.
  • Campsites

    Images

    Room to ShroomWonderland SouthRoom to Shroom, 5.9Room to ShroomRoom to ShroomRoom to Shroom, 5.9Room to Shroom, 5.9