OverviewThe Südrampe is the easiest route through the south face of the Roter Turm. A little more difficult, a little less known and therefore a little less polished than some of the other classics of the area (such as the Bügeleisenkante and the Kleine Gamswiesenspitze Nordostkante).
This route takes the line of least resistance through a mass of overhangs. What really makes this a gem of a route is the exposure and the variety of climbing styles involved, including ramps, overhangs and chimneys. And it has a really big feel for a route that´s only 4 pitches long.
Getting ThereGo to the Schmittband as described on the Roter Turm page. Follow the track on the Schmittband to the right (roughly east) underneath the south face of the Roter Turm.
The south face is split in half by a deep, prominent chimney. But just before reaching this, there is second chimney; less deep and less prominent, with a black patch of rock in it. Some 10 meters before this second chimney, the path on the Schmittband reaches a high point and then descends again. On this high point, leave the track and head up and a little bit left (roughly west, back the way you came) towards the south face, to a grassy ledge with a rock ledge just above it.
The grassy ledge is a good place to rope up. After that, scramble up the rock ledge and traverse right to the first double bolt belay.
The approach and first pitch described here actually is an alternative to the original first pitch, which follows the second chimney described above, starting at the Schmittband.
Route DescriptionThroughout the route, you will have to rely on a mix of bolted and natural protection. In the summer of 2011, a mix of old and new equipment was present on the route, ranging from old pegs to modern glue-in bolts.
First pitch (III/IV): from the double bolt belay, climb a groove leading up and right. A bolt of one of the sport climbing routes can be clipped to the left. A little higher, a double bolt belay in a niche becomes visible where the groove steepens.
There are two options available here:
1) climb up the groove, clip one of the bolts of the belay (use a long runner!) and traverse right into the "small chimney" (black rock).
2) traverse right directly, before the groove steepens and climb up to the beginning of the "small chimney".
I recommend the second option as it is easier and avoids rope drag. And there are good opportunities to place protection, anyway. In the "small chimney", stem your way up to the double bolt belay.
If you´re cimbing this with a backpack, you might consider leaving it at the floor of the "little chimney" and get your second to bring it up. If you have something that is 5 meters long (a sling, for example, or a piece of rope), you can also use this to attach your backpack to your harness; climb the chimney; and then haul up your backpack.
Second pitch (V/IV): from the belay, traverse to the right and up, on a vague ramp (exposed). Clip the rightmost bolt and pull through the overhang just right of this bolt (crux) and onto the "Südrampe". Climb up the "rampe" (2 bolts, good opportunities for natural protection) to the eagle´s nest at its end (double bolt belay).
Third pitch (IV/III+): to the right of the eagle´s nest is the "big chimney". Climb around the corner and descend into it (exposed). Then climb up the chimney. There is an old peg on the right and a feature that can be threaded of the left. As you gain more altitude, the chimney gets narrower. You pass a bolt on the left side of the chimney. At the second bolt, which is also on the left, leave the chimney on its left side. Belay a little higher with a big sling around a rock sticking out (in 2011, there was a piece of rope around this).
Fourth pitch (III/II): climb up, keeping the chimney (which now is more like a gully) to your right. At a certain point, you reach a ridge that hides a gully that runs down behind it. This is the gully that is the continuation of the Schmittkamin route. Follow the ridge some meters to the right and belay using a long sling (or your rope) around a big rock.
Officially, this is where the route ends. To gain the summit: from the last belay, scramble up to the right (roughly east) to a point where the floor of the gully (the continuation of the Schmittkamin route) meets the ridge. Beyond this, another gully goes down. On this high point, climb a short and polished chimney to your left (north). This is the Schneiderkamin (II+) that leads to the summit.
TimeLienzer Dolomitenhütte - Karlsbader Hütte: 2h30m. Karlsbader Hütte - beginning of the route: 1h. Beginning of the route - Roter Turm: 1h30m. Total: 5h.
Getting DownScramble back down the Schneider kamin. Again two options are available.
The first option is to descend into the gully left (roughly east; alpenvereinsführer"/alpine guidebook: R567A) and downclimb the Normalroute. This is described on the Roter Turm page.
The second option is to descend into the gully right (roughly west; alpenvereinsführer"/alpine guidebook: R564) and climb down the gully to the Schmittkamin. The gully can be scrambled down until you reach a narrow section beyond which terrain steepens. At this position, there is a bolted belay on the left (facing down). From this, abseil down into the Schmittsattel(two pitches or one pitch with a double rope of 60 meters).
The second option is faster, but involves abseiling and there is a greater chance that you'll meet some traffice heading up. Beware of falling rocks on both options.
Back on the path, descend to the Laserzwandsattel. Then take the path that leads back to the Karslbader Hütte.
Essential GearSingle rope, 50 meters.
Small set of stoppers, a few small cams.
Some long slings.
Rock boots, mountain boots or approach shoes for the approach and descent.
External Links and LiteratureGerman description of the Schmittkamin (one of the descend routes) on bergsteigen.at
Klettern in den Lienzer Dolomiten
Book Grafik Zloebl Buchdesign und Verlag
Alpenvereinsführer Lienzer Dolomiten
Hubert Peterka, Willi End
Bergverlag Rudolf Rother - München
ISBN: 3 7633 1243 9
Österreichische Karte - Lienz (179 - BMN 3712) 1:25000