Approach
From the Northgate Trailhead, follow the trail/use trail up the gulley that ends at the base of the ridge.
Route Description
This is a great route for an intermediate climber in the early season. Later in the season, it can get quite serious as the snow becomes ice. Follow the ridge up to the steep rocks around 12000'(?). On the way up, note the location of the crevasse on the Hotlum Glacier. On the way down it is very difficult to see and many people have glissaded into it. From the base of the rocks, you can either climb up the rocks (class 3 I believe), or traverse to the right and climb the gulley above the Bolam glacier. Above the gulley, the route curves back to the left above the Hotlum headwall. From there, follow the summit ridge over to the true summit.
On the way down, remember where the large crevasse is. If glissading below the step, stop and move to your left (climbers right) often enough to be sure you are clear of the crevasse.
Essential Gear
Early in the season, an axe and crampons are all that's needed. Later in the season, some people may want to use a rope and anchors, especially in the gully over the Bolam glacier.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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California Cascades
