Normal approach is from White River campground via the trail to Glacier Basin. Then up over St. Elmo pass and across Winthrop Glacier on a slight descending path to Curtis ridge. Cross lower Curtis ridge where it flattens out and drop to Carbon Glacier and ascend Carbon to lower Liberty ridge. This also makes a fine alternative approach to Ptarmigan Ridge route.

Route Description

Access the lower ridge from either the left or right side (E. or W. respectively) depending on conditions on the Carbon. follow the crest as much as possible. Ice and rockfall can be expected. Camp is usually made at Thumb Rock. From Thumb Rock the usual route is up through a snow and rock gully directly above Thumb Rock. If low snow conditions exist, you can follow the snow/ice slope out E. and up until regaining ridge crest. Continue up and encounter increasingly steep snow/ice until below final ice cliffs of Liberty Cap Glacier. The steepest ice can be expected in the area of the 'Black Pyramid'. Above this feature the normal route traverses out W. and up over bergshrund to upper slopes below Liberty Cap. It is also possible (though not recommended) to climb directly up and over ice cliffs consisting of short vertical and slightly overhanging ice steps to upper slopes. In foul weather beware of these initial upper slopes as they are prone to slides. From the summit of Liberty Cap traverse the saddle and climb to Columbia Crest or descend directly via the Emmons Glacier route to camp Shurman. Descent can also easily be made from the summit to Paradise via the normal D.C. route. Descend from Shurman via normal Emmons/Inter glacier route and pick up the trail to White River at Glacier Basin.

Essential Gear

Normal glacier travel gear plus 2 ice tools, ice screws, pickets etc. Pack as light as possible as you will carry over the summit. However do not under estimate this route or mountain. It could cost you you! Check out North American Classic Climbs for epic trip reports of this route.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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