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| N. Couloir   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: California, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 37.27060°N / 118.6728°W Route Type: Mild tech. rock climb. Time Required: One to two days Difficulty: Class 4
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| Page By: dug Created/Edited: Jul 17, 2001 / Jun 26, 2004 Object ID: 155612 Hits: 2187 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
Use the McGee cr approach for this route which is described on the main page. In winter its best to start from the second cattle guard on the approach road. Hike up through sage heading for the ridges to the west. Make your way up and over ridges avoiding as much brush as possible. Avoid the mistake of climbing too high before dropping into McGee cr. you want to cross at about 9600' Once across the going is easier and camp can be made almost anywhere up to McGee lake at 10720+ft.
Route Description
From the lake hike up the moraines leading to the small pocket glacier and begin climbing up the couloir leading to the NW ridge. The angle of the couloir is probably about 40 degrees and crampons my be needed. At the fork in the couloir take the right branch and continue up it to the ridge crest. Turn S and climb over a small peaklet and descend to the notch below the summit mass. Head around W. and climb a class 3 gully. It is important especially in the winter to stay far right in the upper part of the gully. When you arrive at a wall traverse out to the W. and climb directly up a sharp arete, cl.4. At the top traverse back E. (cl. 3)and make one more easy climb to the summit. On descent down climb to the arete and a couple of rappels will put you back down in the gully.
Essential Gear
1 50m rope a few slings and carabiners. Ice axe and crampons may be necessary.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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John Muir Wilderness
