From Hannegan Pass head South and up toward a cliffed knoll. Circle around the left side of the knoll and continue along the broad ridge toward Ruth Mountain.
From here you can make a short side trip to the summit of Ruth Mtn, or you can head straight toward the highest saddle West (right) of the summit. The glacier typically has very few open crevasses, so travel is very straight forward.
The high saddle is a good place to bivouac.
From the high saddle head south toward the low notch on the back side of Ruth. Stay right (west) of the high ridge comming down from Ruth's summit, but DO NOT drop west below ~6600ft.
From here you can do one of 2 things: Drop down into a steep couloir--if filled with snow, this may be a quick descent if the snow is soft, although you will be exposed to rockfall. Or, contour left and down the steep but broad slope on the East side of the couloir.
When you reach the bottom, I recommend traversing on the East side of the ridge for a bit (hop over if you came down the couloir), East of point 6099, until you reach the actuall saddle and cross over to the glacier on the West side of Icy.
From there is a straight forward glacier cruise to the base of the summit, although I encoutered a large bergschrund in August of 2001. Circle West around the summit to the South side. From here you can attack a few different steep gullies with crumbly rock (not recommended), or you may be able to continue around to the col between the summits and hop over to the tip-top of the Spillway Glacier. Then it is an easy scramble to the top of the Northwest Peak. Yee haw.

Essential Gear

Generally, bring gear appropriate for a easy-moderate glacier climb according to the season.
The scramble to the summit does not require any rock pro, but concerned parties or those looking for an unpleasant climb up the steeper and crumbly sides may opt for a selection of small to medium chocks and cams.

Miscellaneous Info

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