| Arapaho Peaks Traverse Route |
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| Arapaho Peaks Traverse   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 40.02670°N / 105.649°W Route Type: scramble Time Required: Half a day Difficulty: class 3
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| Page By: Created/Edited: Oct 13, 2001 / Jan 31, 2010 Object ID: 155844 Hits: 6486 Loading... Page Score: 50.39% - 3 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
ApproachThe most common trailhead is the Fourth of July trailhead, described in the main mountain page. Begin by following the signed and well-beaten Arapaho Pass Trail for approximately 1.5 miles. At the Fourth of July Mine ruins (11,250'), double back to the northeast on the Arapaho Glacier trail, which is also signed and well-beaten. After another 1.5 miles and 1500 feet of climbing, you reach the 12,700' saddle between South Arapaho Peak and Peak 13,038' to the east. From here, take in your first views of both the Arapaho Peaks, and the spectacular Arapaho Glacier.
This TopoZone map nicely shows the approach and the entire traverse.
Route DescriptionFrom the saddle at 12,700', leave the Arapaho Glacier Trail and scramble the remaining 700' over class 2 boulders up the southeast slopes of South Arapaho Peak (13,400'). From the summit, follow the obvious connecting ridge to North Arapaho Peak. Choose your route carefully--if you see class 4 or 5 ahead, look more carefully. You will see use trails and cairns, though many are misleading. The easiest route along the ridge sometimes takes you off the crest of the ridge, over rotten rock with considerable exposure. And most importantly, don't forget to take in the spectacular views of Arapaho Glacier and other nearby features.
The crux is one or two tricky moves (another, from Theron Welch) about 3/4 of the way to North Arapaho Peak--a smooth, 60-75 degree slab which is about 10 feet high. You'll see an orange arrow spray painted(!) onto the rock. In some people's opinion, this short pitch makes the traverse a class 4 or maybe 5 climb. I tend to agree, but in my memory, a fall would not be too dangerous.
Unfortunately, a hundred yards after passing the crux, I was chased off the ridge by impending lightning (be vigilant: if you get caught, you have to go all the way back to South Arapaho Peak before you can get off the ridge!), and thus had to abort my attempt on the North Peak. By all accounts, however, the remainder of the climb is straightforward class 2/3.
Essential GearDon't bother with the rope for the crux. It is short, and frankly, unprotectable in my recollection. You may elect to bring a pair of rock shoes in your pack, but these are not necessary by any means.
While there is no well-defined snow/ice climbing on this route, you may choose to bring an axe and crampons for security. Crampons may be especially useful when this popular trail gets icy.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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After a much needed winter storm brought about 8 inches of fresh powder to the Divide, I picked up on the short weather window for optimal conditions the day after and chose Hallett Peak as my evening destination. I began hiking the Flattop Trail about 11:30 am. I didn't bring snowshoes because I was certain others had paved the way. Where the trail splits going to Odessa Lake or to Flattop, I was scared to death what I saw. A single ski track heading up the Flattop Trail. Soon afterword, I was praising the skier and new I needed to buy him a beer someday. That ski track was just enough to hold my weight through the trees, all the way to treeline. Yes, I did my fair share of postholing, occasionally punching through to my waist, and once, did the beautiful class 5 Wollowfest 2010. Above treeline, I didn't miss the usual hurricane force winds. The weather was truely spectaclar and the evening sunset was setting up to be everything I had hoped for. I made Flattop, and realized it was just going to be me up here for the rest of the day. My beloved ski track left Flattop and dropped down Tyndell Glacier. I continued on to Hallett Peak, dealing with some annoying cramping in my lower extremities. Halletts summit has a nice wind shelter up there and after I dug out the snow I set up shop for the next 3 hours. I think I got up there about 3:20ish, earlier than I wanted. Now I wait for sunset. And wait...and wait....
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Ive come to the conclusion, That Longs Peak my be my favorite mountain in Colorado. Ive climbed over 300 mountains in this state including everything around Longs and never have climbed Longs. Im just too busy taking pictures of it. I can't get enough of it.
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