Approach

The most common trailhead is the Fourth of July trailhead, described in the main mountain page. Begin by following the signed and well-beaten Arapaho Pass Trail for approximately 1.5 miles. At the Fourth of July Mine ruins (11,250'), double back to the northeast on the Arapaho Glacier trail, which is also signed and well-beaten. After another 1.5 miles and 1500 feet of climbing, you reach the 12,700' saddle between South Arapaho Peak and Peak 13,038' to the east. From here, take in your first views of both the Arapaho Peaks, and the spectacular Arapaho Glacier.

This TopoZone map nicely shows the approach and the entire traverse.

Route Description

From the saddle at 12,700', leave the Arapaho Glacier Trail and scramble the remaining 700' over class 2 boulders up the southeast slopes of South Arapaho Peak (13,400'). From the summit, follow the obvious connecting ridge to North Arapaho Peak. Choose your route carefully--if you see class 4 or 5 ahead, look more carefully. You will see use trails and cairns, though many are misleading. The easiest route along the ridge sometimes takes you off the crest of the ridge, over rotten rock with considerable exposure. And most importantly, don't forget to take in the spectacular views of Arapaho Glacier and other nearby features.

The crux is one or two tricky moves (another, from Theron Welch) about 3/4 of the way to North Arapaho Peak--a smooth, 60-75 degree slab which is about 10 feet high. You'll see an orange arrow spray painted(!) onto the rock. In some people's opinion, this short pitch makes the traverse a class 4 or maybe 5 climb. I tend to agree, but in my memory, a fall would not be too dangerous.

Unfortunately, a hundred yards after passing the crux, I was chased off the ridge by impending lightning (be vigilant: if you get caught, you have to go all the way back to South Arapaho Peak before you can get off the ridge!), and thus had to abort my attempt on the North Peak. By all accounts, however, the remainder of the climb is straightforward class 2/3.

Essential Gear

Don't bother with the rope for the crux. It is short, and frankly, unprotectable in my recollection. You may elect to bring a pair of rock shoes in your pack, but these are not necessary by any means.

While there is no well-defined snow/ice climbing on this route, you may choose to bring an axe and crampons for security. Crampons may be especially useful when this popular trail gets icy.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.