This page is dedicated to the former maintainer Rahel Maria Liu who tragically died during an attempted climb of the Innominata spur on the southern (Italian) face of Mont Blanc in August 2004.

Overview

The Cosmiques Ridge is a supurb varied route which is justifiably popular. It is the perfect introduction to Alpine mixed climbing has enough variety to keep experienced climbers happy. The route is also known as the Cosmiques Arête and South-South-West Ridge. It's graded at AD (sometimes even PD or PD+) but the crux is hard for its grade and suitable mixed climbing and abseiling skills are required. Much of the ridge can be climbed moving together, however the crux section will likely require a belay to be established. The rock is excellent quality throughout and there are plenty of locations to place protection.
It is possible to climb the ridge year round however poor snow conditions will make the route more difficult and dangerous. In poor conditions, descending from the cable station down to the Col du Midi can also be a nervous affair. Most people climb the route between June and September. The ridge was first climbed by George and Maxwell Finched on 2nd August 1911.

The Route

Approach

The route starts from the Abri Simond bivouac hut which is adjacent to the Cosmiques hut. The obvious way to reach the starting point is via the Aiguille du Midi-Vallee Blanche Cable car from Chamonix. From the cable car station, descend to the Col du Midi and then head for the Cosmiques Hut, bearing towards to Abri Simond as it comes into view. It's possible to climb the Cosmiques Ridge the same morning as having taken the cable car however there will be climbing traffic on the route which will likely slow you down.

Descending from the Aiguille du Midi station

Traversing the Col du Midi

Start of the Cosmiques Ridge above the Abri Simond hut

Route Description

The route description sounds intricate however it is generally easy to navigate. Cosmiques Ridge commences from the Abri Simond hut from where it climbs 150m to 3770m. Despite the short distance, the route usually takes about half a day. Initially the climbing is up an easy snow slope and then mixed ground. As you approach the first gendarme of the subsidiary summit (3731m), climb the inclined slabs (4b).

Start of route

Just above the Abri Simond Hut

Short distance above Abri Simond hut

Lower slabs

Top of ab point

Follow the crest of the ridge to the second subsidiary summit. Make a descending traverse (exposed, possible abseil) across two steps. Follow the steps to the end where it passes between two rock walls.
Abseil 30m in two pitches via the bolted belays.

1st abseil

2nd abseil

Continue traversing along terraces to go round the first big tower. Climb an awkward chimney (4a) to reach a good ledge on the right. Climb back onto the ridge via a snow slope that overlooks the Cosmiques Couloir. Go right round a second tower. Alternatively skirt the second tower to the left, going through a small notch and descending a small ice couloir. Follow the ridge to the foot of the crux slab.

Abseil section (l) & 1st tower (r)

Traverse round 1st tower

4a chimney

Above 4a chimney

Route between two towers

Traversing towards crux slab

View back to 2nd tower from crux slab

The crux slab is only 5m and has an in-situ sling and pegs in the diagonal crack running up it but is rated 4c. The slab appears to have been made easier recently by a mindless moron having chipped sections out of the rock. I have not seen the evidence first hand to be able to gauge how this affects the difficulty but these photos clearly show the damage:

Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3

If you can't manage the slab then you will need to back-track and descend the Cosmiques Couloir (PD, 200m, 40/45 degrees) down to the Col du Midi.

Leading the crux 4c section in poor conditions

4c slab

Traverse above slab

Above the slab, traverse right along the narrow ledge. Climb a few metres to a terrace on the left and move onto the NW face. Gain a couloir-chimney, then climb clacks (2 pitches 3c/4a). Go up onto the final snowy shoulder and climb the metal ladder to the terrace on the South pinnacle.

Final 3c/4a pitches

Top of the route

Final ladder up to the cable station

View back down the route

Difficulty:

1. Eberlein :
IV+ (6m), mostly II, seldom III, mixed AD, short but varied firn and rock ridge, very beautiful, in summer full, 200 hm, 2-4 h

2. Damilano/Perroux :
II AD. 4a, key passage: 4c

Essential Gear

• Crampons
• Ice axe
• Rope (2 half ropes recommended for the abseils)
• Half a set of nuts
• 4 slings
• 4 quickraws
• Abseil/belay device

Accomodation

Cosmiques hut above tents on the Col du Midi

Cosmiques Hut (3613m)
Tel +33 (0)4 50544016
145 Places
Staffed from mid-february to mid-october

Abri Simond bivouac hut
Officially the hut is no longer usable but is still open in winter when the Cosmiques hut is closed. There is no charge for staying and there are 18 beds. There is no electricity and you need to be completely self sufficient to stay here.

The Midi Station
An rougher option is to sleep on the floor in the midi station. Again you obviously need to be completely self sufficient. On the plus side, the route will finish right on your doorstep.

Camping
People always camp on the Col du Midi. It's not officially allowed but people do it anyway!

External Links

Trip report

Another trip report

I plan to add a proper list of external links in the coming days...

Images



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