NW-Ascent/Icenose

Route

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Geography

Routes in Italy / Switzerland

Parents

Piz Scerscen

Routes

NW-Ascent/Icenose

Page Type: Route

Location: Lombardia/Graubünden (Bernina), Italy/Switzerland, Europe

Route Type: Mixed Climb (Rock and Ice)

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: S, 60°, IV

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Page By: Rahel Maria Liu, hiltrud.liu

Created/Edited: Dec 15, 2001 / Oct 1, 2009

Object ID: 155994

Hits: 1432

Page Score: 87.44% - 6 Votes

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Table of Contents

Approach

From the Tschiervahütte, you have to cross the glacier with direction to the W-foot of Piz Umur. From there, it goes up a steeper snowflank. Then you go on the glacier along the west side of Piz Umur to the firn saddle (the so called Fuorcla da l'Umur), which is located on 3273 m. You need about 2 1/2 h from the Tschiervahütte.

Route Description

From the firn saddle, you climb the rock ridge with SE-direction, mostly on the right side. The rocks are crumbling and bad. Maybe, this is the most difficult part of the route. After the rock passage comes the nose (30m, 60°). Above the nose, you go up the firn flank, which is not very steep, until you reach the final steep ice flank. Now you go directly to the summit. It is 700 hm from the Fuorcla da l'Umur. If you are quick, you need 4-8 h. The descent is as well via the ice nose.

Essential Gear

2 ice axes, crampons, ice screws, slings.