Approach
Overnight:
- Refuges at Col de Midi (Ref Cosmiques in summer or Simond Bivouc in Winter)
- Torino Hut
Route Description
| Books: | Gaston Rebuffat: Mont Blanc Massif - Selected 100 Routes
Erich Vanis: Im Steilen Eis |
| First Ascent: | 13.Aug.1934 Giusto Gervasutti & Renato Chabod |
| Route: | Approach 1h from Cosmiques, 2h from Torino Hut
Then simply go up 50 degree ice/snow in a straight line for 5 hours before you can decide to continue in a straight line or go to the left to the summit of Tacul.
The Icefall above the couloir is a danger that can't be avoided, but it does not unload ice too frequently. | | Descent: |
Walk down North-West Slopes 1-2h (often avalanche-prone in winter and spring!) | | Report: | none yet |
Essential Gear
No belays necessary in this grade.
if you are easily scared you probably shouldn't do this anyway.
But a screw or two and some snowstakes could help then.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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Mont Blanc GROUP
