North Face

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Geography

Routes in Switzerland

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Routes

Page Type: Route

Location: Berner Oberland, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.46670°N / 7.98330°E

Route Type: Hard-Snow / Ice Climb

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: @@@ ~45deg ice (up to 70deg max)

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Page By: UlrichPrinz

Created/Edited: Jan 2, 2002 / Jan 2, 2002

Object ID: 156046

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Table of Contents

Approach

It is possible to do the tour from the Hollandia and the Konkordia-Hut. See the Main Page for Photos and a Map.
Below is the detailed info for the Hollandia Hut (for K. click on this link: Konkordiahütte)

Hollandiahütte

Winter skitouring season
from Jungfraujoch	Downhill over the Jungfraufirn to the Konkordiaplatz, Climb up the Aletschfirn	3 ½ hour
	Other possibility: via Lauitor (3'670 m) /Lauihorn (3‘773 m)	1 hour more
from Lötschental	If possible climb up in the morning	6-7 hrs
from Blatten	Climb up via Fafleralp and Langgletscher	3-4 hrs
from the Anenhütte	via Langgletscher
Summer season
from Jungfraujoch	over Jungfraufirn to Konkordiaplatz / climb up the Grosse Aletschfirn	4-5 hrs
from Lötschental
from Blatten	Climb up via Fafleralp and Langgletscher	7-8 hrs
from Fafleralp	via Langgletscher	5-6 hrs
From the Anenhütte	via Langgletscher	3-4 hrs

Route Description

Books:	SAC-Clubfuehrer Berner Alpen 3 Erich Vanis
First Ascent:	31.Aug.1883 E. Nugee, M. Cababe, Rudolf Kaufmann, Peter Schlegel
Ascent:	Approach 1h from Hollandiahut, Then go up as seen in the Topo-picture approx. 5-6 hours
Descent:	Usually down the SW-Ridge towards the Oberaletschgletscher and the Oberaletschhütte (Hut) or north over the 'Haslerrippe' (4h) or back to the as seen on this map Note: Here you might have to downclimb some icy sections
Report:	Ulrich Prinz

Essential Gear

Standard North-Face equipment and Glacier Equipment.
Crampons,
No belaying necessary in normal conditions