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West Ridge - Direct Variation
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West Ridge - Direct Variation 

Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 47.47220°N / 121.3611°W

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: hardest move: 5.6

Route Quality: 
 - 6 Votes
 

 

Page By: zoroastr

Created/Edited: Jan 3, 2002 / Jul 20, 2005

Object ID: 156054

Hits: 1572 

Page Score: 6.91% - 2 Votes 

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Approach


Per Becky: "From Bumblebee Pass, contour NW then climb to the 5960-ft. saddle inside a small rock horn at the ridge's foot." Actually, from the point where you first enter the basin at Bumblebee Pass, the start of the climb will appear fairly obvious.

Route Description


This is a habit-forming "mid-fives" affair, complete with 700 ft. of ledges, chimneys, and a few good vegetable belays. According to the route diagram in Becky's guide, there are no moves above Class 5.8, making the climb a good one for those wanting to refine basic skills before moving on to more technical challenges. Personally, I found the West Ridge to be quite scary enough, thank you. See Becky for precise description including diagrams.

Essential Gear


Small rack--plenty of runners, protection pieces for traditional alpine rock, long rope if you plan to rappel back down the same route. The East Ridge is downclimbable, and the usual descent.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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