Use an air taxi most commonly from Gulkana airport near Glenallen Alaska. A short flight will take you across the Copper River to a landing area in a depression in the tundra known locally as 'dry lake'. From there just head out across the tundra toward the peak and the unnamed glacier between the Nadina glacier and Klawasi river. Make good mental notes of your route in as dry lake can be difficult to find coming back down to it.

Route Description

Climb the glacier up toward the S.W. ridge and access the ridge via a snow slope. Rope up on the glacier!! there are hidden crevasses at the base of the ridge! The lower part of the ridge can be either talus scramble or snow, climb this easily to the base of the dome. Climb the dome along the ridge and be alert for avalanche conditions. A camp can be made approx. 8600' ft. Continue up the ridge to a camp at 10000'. From here up the ridge can be exposed and in some places steep. Several false summits will eventually lead to the summit at 12010 ft.

Essential Gear

Standard glacier gear and a few pickets, some slings and biners to clip your pickets.

Miscellaneous Info

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