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Alte Südwand
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Alte Südwand 

Page Type: Route

Location: Tyrol (Allgäu), Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.50310°N / 10.60210°E

Route Type: rock climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: UIAA IV

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Josh

Created/Edited: Jan 26, 2002 / Jan 28, 2002

Object ID: 156116

Hits: 675 

Page Score: 86.25% - 1 Votes 

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Approach


**I did not actually submit this page, and I don't want to maintain it. Please let me know if you want to take charge of it. Thanks.
-Josh


From Gimpelhaus, follow a narrow track to the south face. Traverse the foot of the face to the right until you are exactly under the summit crucifix.
Go on traversing until an easy chimney (II), 10 meters, leads to a ledge.

Route Description


The is the only obviosly easy route through the south face.
This ledge leads right and slightly upwards for 3 pitches(I,III,II). Climb the following chimney (IV, crux) to the head of a pillar. This may be icy in winter.
Follow a gully on the left (1 pitch, II), and a crack (1 pitch, IV-). Reach a ramp by a left- loop (II) and climb that ramp (3 pitches, VI-, III, III) to the end on a hiking trail and follow this to the summit

Essential Gear


Use a helmet and a double / twin rope because of heavy rockfall from the lots of beginners in the route. All difficult moves are bolted, for the rest a small set of rocks and 3 or 4 webbings is recommended. There are lots of tunnels & chickenheads.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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