Take the Teleferique (funicular) from Cham to the top of the Aig Du Midi,
then walk down the ridge with crampons, turn right and you stand in front of the face.

Route Description

FirstAscent:	13..July.1956: Gaston Rebuffat & M.Baquet
FaceHeight:	200m (from 3600m to 3800m)
Ascent:	Note: According to the guidebook this route is likely the most often climbed route of the Mt.Blanc Massif. This is due to its beautiful granite, the exposure to the warm south side, the fact that this is one of the easiest routes on this face and the proximity of the teleferique, which makes the approach an easy thing. -> If you plan to climb it, try to do it in late spring or early fall, but not in July or August ! Climb up 9 Pitches as seen in the topo. It is too difficult to describe this in words. The route starts at the right of the face and ends approximately in the middle. Pitches: 4 / 6a / 5 / 6a / 5+ / 5 / 5 / 4 / 4+
Descent:	Either rappel down the face again from the shoulder by a 10m abseil on the northern side towards a snowy ridge, then by this to the corridors of the south piton. From the summit, you first have to abseil some pitches of the "Ballade pour Aurelia" to reach this path Or take the teleferique down to Chamonix again, or walk down the ridge to the huts.
Report:	Kai Larsons Cham Trip Tour report by Lampi[tm]
Books:	Michel Piola: Mont Blanc Topo Guide Vol. 1 (Rock). Published by Editions Equinoxe 1988. Distributed by Cordee £17.95 ISBN 904405281 -> Tour Number 16 Gaston Rébuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif. The 100 Finest Routes. London 1996 ISBN 1-898573-03-4/0898864771 (to order at amazon.de or at amazon.com)

Essential Gear

There is a LOT of Equipment in Place ! Many Pitons and also many
'fixed Friends' with ripped pull-cables that are safely stuck.
A couple of Extra-Friends in Medium-to-Small sizes are nice,
if you loose your way.

Staying Overnight

You can find an amazing load of info about this on Rahels wonderful Cosmiques/Simond/CampOnGlacier Page

Images



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