Lauper

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Geography

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Lauper

Page Type: Route

Location: Berner Oberland, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.58330°N / 8.00000°E

Route Type: Technical Rock / Ice Climb

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: ED, V, 55º

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Page By: Diego Sahagún

Created/Edited: Feb 24, 2002 / Jun 16, 2002

Object ID: 156244

Hits: 7717

Page Score: 79.92% - 7 Votes

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Table of Contents

First Climb

By the Swiss doctor Hans Lauper and Alfred Zücher with the guides Alexader Graven and Joseph Knubel on 20 August 1932.

Approach

NE face emerges from the fields of Alpiglen (1,616 m). To go there the base must be the tourist town of Grindelwald.

See GETTING THERE section of the MAIN PAGE for this subject.

Route Description

This route traverses the NE face of Eiger with a height of 1,800 m, between 2,170 and 3,970 m. Is higher than any other nearby N face and therfore only advised for resistant and experienced climbers. A bivouac can be planned if bad conditions. If weather turns bad, an emergence exit to Mittellegi ridge can be difficult due to slippery rocks. Also be careful with falling rocks from the belays there.

From the foot of the face go upstairs to the little glacier called Hoheneis. Climb it directly or on the rocks at its left side. Go diagonal along a flat rock projection, reaching a snowfield, climb it. You´ll find another rock projection with snowy grooves below a cliff. Go the right at its foot to a large gully (be careful of rock falling); climb this narrow couloir avoiding the left break. When opens (IV) leave it to the right up on the bastion and go along a little arête to the central part of the face. Keeping lightly to the right, reach the snowy slope (Lauperschild) between two rock projections. Go diagonal across it to finish on a little gap over the rock line that divide N and NE faces (as high as the Mittellegi ridge great protuberance). Go up the final section of the face on an ice slope to the foot of a narrow rock bar. Climb it on the left side. A new ice slope lead to a crack (IV-V) in a a rock barrier, climb it coming out to steep ice-covered rocks. Finally be a little snow arête to Mittellegi ridge and summit.

Essential Gear

Ice axe, hammer axe, ice crampons, karabiners, ice screws, 3-4 pegs, ropes and all other gear for a high-technical rock and ice climb.